by Shreya S
Simone Rocha’s takeover as the creative director of JPG Couture this season was nothing short of mesmerizing. Taking over the reins with her beloved girly, flirtatious energy, Rocha injected a fresh, surprising energy. I instantly fell in love!
She presented sensuality with a new-age, genuine feminine gaze, offering a fresh take that counters Jean Paul Gaultier’s stunning 90s sexual empowerment.
Rocha, with her signature blend of romanticism and subversion, was a perfect match for Gaultier’s audacious spirit. The resulting collection did not disappoint, offering a blend of the two houses’ aesthetics. Rocha’s touch was evident throughout the 36-piece collection. Her love of volume and soft hues like blush pink were beautifully integrated with Gaultier’s iconic corsetry and structured silhouettes. Playful nods to Gaultier’s history were sprinkled throughout, with the conical bra reimagined as devil horns and sailor stripes fashioned from cascading ribbons.
The collection thrived on the contrast between Rocha’s signature romanticism and a newfound edge. The familiar Rocha elements – bows, ruffles, and layers of tulle – were there, but presented with a sharper, more assertive marker. This resonated with the rebellious spirit of Gaultier, adding a layer of complexity to the traditionally “girly” aesthetic. The colour palette of soft pink tones, nudes, and blacks further emphasized the collection’s sensuality.
Despite the play with subversion, the collection remained a celebration of femininity. Rocha’s signature roses and pearls adorned the garments, adding a touch of whimsicality. The corsetry, reinterpreted with looser lacing and trailing ribbons, hinted at sensuality without resorting to overt provocation. This collection offered a new perspective on femininity, one that was powerful and playfully provocative. The use of traditional couture techniques allowed Rocha to push the boundaries of her designs, resulting in a collection that felt both innovative and respectful. Rocha’s collection was a celebration of vintage opulence and unabashed femininity.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
Ayerhs Magazine 