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Spring 2020 showed a different side of Piccioli. The house talked about Carl Jung, Surrealism and the subconscious, and framed couture as a kind of collective dream. Piccioli himself was blunter: he said he doesn’t believe in telling a story each season, and that couture should be about the freedom to express yourself.
After several seasons of the huge, billowing volumes the rest of fashion had started to copy, he went for structure: straight columns, fishtails, more trousers and modular pieces. Some of it was clever in ways only the wearer would know. Panels that looked like low-slung cummerbunds were sewn in, a scrolled peplum was tied on with a sash, and opera gloves sprouted frills that ran into deep ruffled necklines. Near-sheer turtlenecks went under gowns.
Oversized bows, violet feathers, pearl embroidery and plenty of Valentino red kept it recognisable. The colour was gorgeous, with purple, eau de nil, scarlet, parma violet, pink and mint, often clashed or mixed with prints, and the black dresses were just as strong.
The reception was good, if quieter than for the seasons around it. Fashionista said he had proved once again that he knows how to make a gown, Reuters saw a subversive twist on the classic evening dress, and L’Officiel said he still ruled couture.
Less of a spectacle than before, but smart and full of ideas, a designer searching for a new shape.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed, and the season after in Valentino Haute Couture Fall 2020.
Previous collection: Valentino Fall 2019 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Fall 2020 Couture
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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