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Ludovic de Saint Sernin was guest number eight at Jean Paul Gaultier, and the youngest so far, and the pairing made sense from the start. Both designers deal in a sensuality that is provocative and polished at once.
He called the collection Le Naufrage, the shipwreck. The idea came from a music video of Seal and Mylène Farmer adrift on a raft, and from a ship-shaped headpiece in a 1997 Gaultier show, which he recreated. From there he went underwater, with a character for every look.
It opened with a pale seafoam corset, laced the LdSS way, over a skirt of sequin scales, a mermaid with attitude. Then came a Cupid in feathered wings and leather briefs, a nearly nude bodice drawn with an anchor over a lace skirt, a pirate, a woman who seemed to be wrapped in sails, and a ghostly bride and groom covered in feathers and beads. The workmanship was the real draw: Grès-style pleating twisted around the body, dark grey latex made to look like crocodile, and a crystal-covered micro fishnet dress.
Not every idea connected to the next, and the theme had to stretch to hold them all. But it was fun, a little camp and beautifully made, which is the Gaultier spirit. He closed the show himself in a corset, waist snatched. Fitting.
More Jean Paul Gaultier: see every Gaultier couture show we have reviewed, including the other guest designers.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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