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Nicolas Di Felice of Courrèges was the least experienced name to guest at Jean Paul Gaultier, and you would never have known it. For him Gaultier stood for Paris itself, the city where a queer kid from the Belgian countryside could become anyone. The collection told that story.
It began covered up. Long sleeves, long skirts and necklines that climbed over the face. Look by look the body appeared: first the head, then the shoulders, until dresses were peeling away at the hips. The palette moved from dark to light as it went. It was a slow reveal, and a very sexy one.
The thread running through everything was the hook and eye, taken from a fabric swatch in the Gaultier archive. Di Felice used the fastening to join squares and rectangles of silk gabardine, gazar and taffeta into narrow, twisted shapes that hug the body. Because the hooks open and close, the wearer decides how much to show. A slip dress came undone to the waist over a shell studded with them, and a chainmail dress was made from 40,000 linked together.
It is a tight, disciplined collection with one idea explored fully. Some may miss the Gaultier humour, but the sensuality and the craft are completely his. Di Felice proved he is a serious talent.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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