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The first guest designer of Gaultier’s post-retirement era was Chitose Abe of Sacai, and it was an inspired choice. Abe is known for splicing two garments into one, so here she spliced two designers. She knows Gaultier’s work so well that she did not even need the archive.
Look one set the tone: the famous 1984 cone bra pushing out of a deconstructed navy pinstripe suit, reworked into a corset and overskirt and worn over tattoo-print mesh made with the tattoo artist Dr. Woo. From there the house codes kept arriving in new forms. The sailor stripe dissolved into chiffon and satin organza. Tartan became a fluttering dress pieced from chiffon. A trench coat turned into a skirt with the volume of an Elizabethan farthingale, Aran knits were patched onto chiffon, and the military braid turned out to be embroidered safety pins. Khaki bomber jackets were stacked into a double puffball that recalled Balenciaga. Pierre Hardy made the thigh-high boots.
The pace was slow and the lighting dramatic, far from Gaultier’s usual noisy runway, and it suited the clothes. What makes the collection work is that both designers love the same things: tartan, punk, men’s suiting and the trench. Gaultier joined Abe for the bow, and she wore a T-shirt that read Enfants Terribles. It is a thoughtful, technically brilliant start to the guest series.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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