by Shreya S
From the moment the first model stepped onto the runway, it was evident that this was no ordinary fashion show. The show was a theatrical experience, with models embodying intriguing night walkers reminiscent of Brassaï’s photographs of Paris’s underbelly. The clothing, with its twisted tailoring, masterful deconstruction, and play on proportions, fused the romantic with the macabre, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. Disturbingly poetic and surreal.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was Galliano’s use of fabric and construction techniques. He introduced several new couture dressmaking techniques, including “retrograding,” which uses variations of thread-work, appliqué, or encrustation to mimic the degeneration of detail that results when an image is recreated. Another technique, “emotional cutting,” infuses the garment with the unconscious gestures that influence our expressions, according to Galliano. It’s art in motion, really.
But perhaps what truly set this collection apart was Galliano’s ability to merge old-school couture techniques with high-tech innovations. Fabrics were treated and manipulated to mimic the effects of water, rain, and decay, creating a sense of ethereal beauty that was both haunting and mesmerizing. The painstaking craftsmanship that went into creating these garments was evident, with each piece meticulously constructed to achieve the desired effect.
And can we talk about the makeup? Galliano’s collaboration with make-up artist Pat McGrath further enhanced the show’s artistic vision. McGrath created a retro-futuristic, doll-inspired make-up look that complemented Galliano’s designs perfectly, adding to the overall surreal atmosphere of the show.
The collection wasn’t just a nostalgic throwback. Galliano masterfully blended Margiela’s signature deconstruction with his love for dramatic tailoring and historical references. We saw hints of Galliano’s golden years at Dior, with nipped-waist silhouettes and elaborate Edwardian hats. The iconic Tabi shoe was even reimagined in collaboration with Christian Louboutin, showcasing a fusion of Maison Margiela’s avant-garde and Louboutin’s signature style.
Today when we are dominated by social media spectacle, Galliano’s triumph is a testament to the enduring power of exceptional design. The clothes themselves, not fleeting internet trends, were the stars of the show. This wasn’t just fashion; it was an immersive experience, a celebration of pure creative expression.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
Ayerhs Magazine 