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There were no wings and no suns in Icarus. Roseberry chose the name for the ambition to fly higher, and to challenge the idea that modern has to mean simple. He wanted clothes that felt ancient and new at once.
The corset was the centre of everything. Hips jutted out at sharp angles or were padded into impossible half-domes. A white bodice with black trousers looked like a futurist sculpture. Under a draped tulle dress, the corset turned the model into something close to a perfume bottle, and the boning on Kendall Jenner’s dress ran from bust to thigh like the lines of an Art Deco building. The surfaces were so smooth they looked like car bodies: a wavy 3D peplum, a velvet dress with one stiff scrolled side, and a cream tail jacket with a rounded tail that stuck out like a piece of aircraft. All of it was moulded by hand.
The antique part came from a box of old Lyon ribbons he had found. One slim dress was made of tiers of ribbon that trembled as the model walked, and the final dress was cut from a single length of brown moiré.
You can question whether such extreme corsetry is modern at all. But as a display of what a couture atelier can do, this is breathtaking.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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