Bespoke, made-to-measure and the anatomy of a suit.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 2 November 2026
What is the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure?
| How it is made | |
|---|---|
| Bespoke | A unique pattern is drafted from scratch for the client, with several fittings; largely made by hand. Savile Row in London is its home. |
| Made-to-measure | An existing pattern is adjusted to the client’s measurements, usually with one fitting. |
| Ready-to-wear | Made in standard sizes and altered if needed. |
What are the parts of a suit jacket?
The lapels (notch, peak or shawl), the shoulders (structured or soft), the buttoning (single-breasted or double-breasted), the vents at the back (none, one or two), the pockets, and the inner canvas that gives the chest its shape.
What is a canvassed jacket?
A jacket with a layer of canvas, traditionally horsehair and wool, stitched between the outer fabric and the lining, which moulds to the body over time. Full canvas runs through the whole front, half canvas covers the chest, and cheaper fused jackets glue the layers instead.
What is the difference between English and Italian tailoring?
English tailoring, from Savile Row, is typically structured, with a defined waist and strong shoulders. Italian tailoring, especially Neapolitan, is softer and lighter, with natural shoulders. Giorgio Armani brought unstructured tailoring to ready-to-wear in the 1970s and 80s.
Read on Ayerhs: The Tuxedo · Menswear Trends 2027 · Couture, Couture-Inspired and Custom-Made · Giorgio Armani