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Fall 2018 is Piccioli at his most joyful. The show closed couture week, and by the end the audience was on its feet, which almost never happens at couture, and Mr Valentino was crying in the front row.
The notes were about time, setting the two Greek words for it, Chronos and Kairos, against each other, and imagining couture as something seen in a daydream. Piccioli’s references were wildly mixed: Greek myth, seventeenth and eighteenth-century painting, Pasolini, the photographer Deborah Turbeville, medieval armour and Ziggy Stardust. Capes were covered in gods and goddesses, and a column in crepe intarsia showed Daphne and Apollo, cut like a long T-shirt and pulled in with a drawstring.
The colours clashed gloriously: gold, strawberry, pistachio, turquoise, tangerine and lemon. Featherweight taffeta dresses wrapped and ballooned around the body, a signature red strapless gown was sculpted in scuba jersey, and for day, grand capes went over cropped trousers or Bermuda shorts. Guido Palau built towering 1960s bouffants for seven models, after Avedon’s pictures from the Vreeland years, and others wore bouquets of real flowers on their heads. Kaia Gerber in a floor-length triangle of pale pink feathers was the image of the week.
AP called it couture at its most dramatic, Vogue saw clothes for anyone tired of blending in, and the hair went viral. It is hard to find a bad word written about it.
Brave, beautiful and one of the great Valentino shows.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed, and the season after in Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2019.
Previous collection: Valentino Fall 2017 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Spring 2019 Couture































































Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.






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