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By Fall 2019 Piccioli was the couture designer everyone was watching. His spring show had put diversity at the centre of Valentino, and this one carried the idea further. Couture, he said, only stays alive by embracing different women and different cultures.
The casting backed that up. Lauren Hutton, 75, walked in a green silk dress with pink sequinned gloves to whoops from the room, and Cecilia Chancellor, Georgina Grenville and Hannelore Knuts walked alongside Kaia Gerber and Gigi Hadid. Adut Akech closed the show. The mood board ranged from Avedon and Guy Bourdin to the painter Rosso Fiorentino and Diana Vreeland, with folk touches such as ornamental hats and shaggy wool fringe.
Across 71 looks, colour was the headline, often in unexpected pairings: citron with prune, ochre with lilac and fluorescent yellow, aquamarine with brick. There were kimono shapes and enormous bows, and the handwork was staggering. A pink gown made from small gauze squares tied together one by one took more than 2,000 hours, some coats took 1,700, and every look was credited in the programme to the seamstress who made it. Simple draped taffeta gowns in emerald and electric orange were just as striking.
Then Piccioli came out with his whole atelier, more than sixty people in white coats, who went straight to Valentino Garavani in the front row. Gwyneth Paltrow was not the only one in tears. WWD called it dazzling, and 10 Magazine said his shows had become emotional moments, not just fashion.
Joyful, generous and a high point for the house.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed and Fashion, Fantasy and Love: Valentino Haute Couture by Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Previous collection: Valentino Spring 2019 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Spring 2020 Couture
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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