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With the atelier so close to the Vatican, the church was always going to come up sooner or later. For Fall 2017 Piccioli drew a line between the rituals of the church and those of couture, with all their training, craft and devotion. His starting point was Zurbarán’s paintings of cardinals, nuns and martyrs, and he said people in a digital age were looking for something more spiritual.
There were hooded capes and robes close to liturgical dress, and far less chiffon than before. Small metal bags with enamel mosaic, made with Harumi Klossowska, took the shapes of animal heads standing for the seven deadly sins. The evening pieces were modest but astonishing in their handwork: a pleated skirt made from strips of emerald feathers, cotton lace on velvet, chiffon plissé with velvet inlay, a red gown, and a column of silver bugle-bead fringe hanging from a velvet bodice.
The real win, though, was the daywear. Turtlenecks, shirts, tunics, trousers and capes were layered together in soft, slightly unexpected colours, like candy pink, banana yellow, plum, chocolate and mint. Modest yet grand, colourful yet calm.
Most critics were thrilled. Suzy Menkes called it the outstanding collection of the season and praised his colour, and FashionNetwork admitted the show notes sounded pretentious but turned out to be true. Not everyone agreed: one critic found the shapes boxy and unflattering next to the previous season. Sofia Coppola and Brie Larson were in the audience.
Not every woman wants to dress like a nun, but the craft here is breathtaking. One of Piccioli’s best.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed and Fashion, Fantasy and Love: Valentino Haute Couture by Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Previous collection: Valentino Spring 2017 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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