How the luxury resale market works, which pieces hold their value, how to avoid fakes and why vintage keeps coming back.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 31 October 2026
On this page: The market · Buying safely · Vintage · The Ayerhs view
The market
What is luxury resale?
The buying and selling of pre-owned designer goods through specialist platforms, consignment stores, auction houses and vintage dealers. Well-known platforms include The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and Rebag, and auction houses such as Sotheby’s and Christie’s sell the rarest bags.
Which luxury items hold their value best?
Scarce, classic handbags from the strongest houses: above all the Hermès Birkin and Kelly, then the Chanel Classic Flap and a few others. Most ready-to-wear and trend-led pieces lose much of their value once worn. Condition, rarity, colour, leather and having the original box and receipt all matter.
Read on Ayerhs: The It-bags · Why luxury costs so much
Is a designer bag a good investment?
Only a handful of bags reliably keep or grow their value, and resale prices move with demand. It is safer to buy a bag because you will use and love it, and see any resale value as a bonus. This is general information, not financial advice.
Buying safely
How do you avoid buying a fake?
- Buy from established resellers that authenticate and offer a guarantee and returns
- Be wary of prices far below the market
- Ask for clear photos of stitching, hardware, date codes or serial numbers and the interior
- For high-value pieces, pay for an independent authentication
How do luxury brands feel about resale?
Mixed. Some, such as Gucci, Burberry and Alexander McQueen, have partnered with resale platforms or run buy-back programmes. Others protect their brands closely: Chanel won a 2024 US jury verdict against the reseller What Goes Around Comes Around over the sale of goods it said were unauthorised.
Vintage
What is the difference between vintage and secondhand?
Secondhand simply means pre-owned. Vintage usually means at least 20 years old and representative of its era; pieces over 100 years old are often called antique. “Archive” refers to important pieces from a designer’s past collections, such as 90s Prada or Galliano-era Dior.
Why is vintage fashion so popular?
It is more sustainable, it offers pieces no one else will be wearing, and nostalgia for the 90s and 2000s has made archive fashion highly desirable, helped by celebrities wearing vintage on the red carpet.
Read on Ayerhs: The Benefits of Shopping Secondhand and Vintage Clothing · How Nostalgia Drives Vintage Fashion Trends
The Ayerhs view
Should you buy luxury pre-owned?
Often, yes. Pre-owned lets you buy better quality for less, find pieces from the eras you love and keep good clothes in use. Just buy from sellers you trust.
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