Questions about the Paris saddle-maker behind the Birkin and the Kelly, its designers and its ready-to-wear, answered with Ayerhs’s Hermès reviews.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 31 October 2026
On this page: The house and its founder · The designers · Codes and business · The Ayerhs view
The house and its founder
Who founded Hermès?
Thierry Hermès, who opened a harness workshop in Paris in 1837, making equipment for horse-drawn carriages. As cars replaced horses, his descendants moved into leather bags, luggage, silk scarves and clothing. The house’s horse-and-carriage logo still nods to those origins.
Who owns Hermès?
The Hermès family, through a family holding company, controls the majority of the shares. The company is listed on the Paris stock exchange but remains independent.
The designers
Who designs Hermès clothes?
Nadège Vanhée has designed womenswear since 2014. For menswear, Véronique Nichanian stepped down after 37 years, and Grace Wales Bonner, the British designer of her own label Wales Bonner, was named her successor in October 2025.
| Designer | Line | Years |
|---|---|---|
| Martin Margiela | Womenswear | 1997–2003 |
| Jean Paul Gaultier | Womenswear | 2003–2010 |
| Christophe Lemaire | Womenswear | 2010–2014 |
| Nadège Vanhée | Womenswear | 2014– |
| Véronique Nichanian | Menswear | 1988–2026 |
| Grace Wales Bonner | Menswear | Named 2025 |
Read on Ayerhs: Martin Margiela · Jean Paul Gaultier
What does Hermès ready-to-wear look like?
Quiet, sensual and built from the house’s leather and equestrian roots. Vanhée’s Fall 2025 mixed riding gear with biker chic, and Spring 2026 found a new sensuality in a city-meets-ranch mood.
Read on Ayerhs: Hermès Fall 2025 · Hermès Spring 2026
Codes and business
What is the difference between the Birkin and the Kelly?
The Kelly is a structured bag with a single top handle and a trapezoid shape; it was renamed after Grace Kelly, who was photographed carrying one in the 1950s. The Birkin, created in 1984 for the actor Jane Birkin, is larger and has two handles and an open top flap. Both are handmade by a single artisan and famously hard to buy.
When did Hermès start making silk scarves?
In 1937. The 90 cm silk carré, printed with intricate illustrated designs, is still one of the house’s best-known products.
Why are Hermès bags so hard to get?
Hermès limits production to what its artisans can make by hand and does not advertise its most wanted bags. Scarcity protects the value of the brand.
Read on Ayerhs: How Fashion Brands Create Desire
The Ayerhs view
Why is Hermès the benchmark for luxury?
Because it has never chased trends. Family control, handwork and patience have made Hermès the house others measure themselves against.