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While most designers this season talked about joy, Rick Owens talked about resistance. He was thinking about how the way you respond to a threat defines your character, and he sent out a collection of ferocious glamour to match.
Back at the Palais de Tokyo, his models looked like a tribe of warrior women, somewhere between settlers on a distant planet and the road warriors of Mad Max. The colours were muddy and earthy, and the shapes were wrapped and enveloping with hardly a straight line. Shorts replaced miniskirts. The boots were covered in snaps and pockets and would look tactical if not for the towering heels.
The muse was Marlene Dietrich, whom he admires for going from provocateur to wartime hero to steely cabaret star. Her famous swansdown coat inspired the enormous goat hair coats, the biggest of a season full of big coats. The materials pushed further than ever: Kevlar for strapless column dresses, and marbled felt from Rajasthan for mantles with collars rising past the ears. The Berlin artist Figa Link made the shaggy wigs and the millipede eyelashes.
Owens says this is his cabaret era, the late stretch of a long career. You would never guess it. This is him at full strength, and exactly the energy the season needed.
More Rick Owens: see every Rick Owens show we have reviewed.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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