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McQueen staged Dante by candlelight in a Spitalfields church, with a skeleton seated in the front row. It is the show that turned him from a London sensation into an international name.
The subject was religion and war. McQueen said that religion had caused every war in the world, and that was why he chose a church. Christ Church was built by Hawksmoor in the parish where his own Huguenot ancestors had lived. The show opened with flickering lights, then gunfire and hip-hop.
Beauty and blasphemy ran side by side. There was a black wool coat embroidered in gold bullion, a lilac silk corset with black lace and jet beads, and tailoring cut away and filled with net. He experimented with denim and with Victorian dress, two things he would return to throughout his career. War photographs were printed on jackets. A mask carried a crucified Christ across the face. Kate Moss walked for him for the first time.
The church had not been deconsecrated, and the parish complained. He later restaged the show in New York. The milliner Philip Treacy said this was the collection that changed people’s minds about him. It is solemn, romantic and frightening, and it is one of the greatest fashion shows ever staged.
More McQueen: see every Alexander McQueen show from 1992 to 2010 and Alexander McQueen: The Complete Guide.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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