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This is the most controversial collection of Galliano’s years at Dior. It is known as Les Clochards, the tramps, and it was inspired by the homeless people he saw along the Seine on his morning runs.
He presented it as a tribute to the inventiveness of people who dress with whatever they have. The models wore layered, torn and unfinished clothes. Dresses hung loose, trousers were worn over trousers, and jacket sleeves were held in place with clothes pegs. Shoes were made to look worn out. Tiny bottles and kitchen utensils hung from belts. The most famous element is the newspaper print, on silk dresses that looked wrapped in the day’s paper.
There was uproar. Protesters gathered outside Dior, and the idea of turning poverty into couture that cost a fortune struck many as tasteless. Galliano refused to apologise and called his critics bourgeois and smug.
The discomfort is real and it should be. But the technique is remarkable, and the influence is impossible to deny. The newspaper print became a cult item after Carrie wore it in Sex and the City, and the whole show was parodied as Derelicte in Zoolander. Few collections have stayed in the culture like this one.
Watch the show
External sources
Watch the show: Full show on YouTube
View the collection: Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2000 on FirstView
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Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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