Questions about the house Yves Saint Laurent founded in 1961, from Le Smoking to Anthony Vaccarello, answered from Ayerhs’s Saint Laurent reviews and guides.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 31 October 2026
On this page: The house and its founder · The designers · Codes and business · The Ayerhs view
The house and its founder
Who founded Saint Laurent, and when?
Yves Saint Laurent founded the house in Paris in 1961 with his partner Pierre Bergé, who ran the business, and showed his first collection in January 1962. Born in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, he had already succeeded Christian Dior as head of the Dior house at 21. He retired in 2002 and died in 2008.
Read on Ayerhs: Yves Saint Laurent – The complete guide · A–Z of Yves Saint Laurent · Christian Dior in The Library
What is Le Smoking?
The tuxedo suit for women that Yves Saint Laurent introduced in 1966. A woman in a dinner suit was still provocative at the time; some restaurants refused entry to women wearing trousers. It became the symbol of his idea that women should borrow power from men’s clothes, and every Saint Laurent designer since has returned to it.
Read on Ayerhs: The Tuxedo: How formal menswear became an iconic evening look · Le Smoking Returns: Saint Laurent Fall 2026
What else is Yves Saint Laurent known for?
- The Mondrian dress (1965), a shift dress turned into a modern painting.
- Rive Gauche (1966), one of the first ready-to-wear boutiques run by a couturier.
- The safari jacket and the trouser suit, everyday clothes for modern women.
- Opium (1977), the perfume, and the YSL logo designed by Cassandre.
The designers
Who has designed Saint Laurent since Yves?
| Designer | Years | Defining idea |
|---|---|---|
| Tom Ford | 1999–2004 (ready-to-wear) | Sex and glamour |
| Stefano Pilati | 2004–2012 | Intellectual Parisian elegance |
| Hedi Slimane | 2012–2016 | Rock-and-roll youth; the name changed to Saint Laurent |
| Anthony Vaccarello | 2016– | Sharp shoulders, sex and the YSL archive |
Read on Ayerhs: Tom Ford – The complete guide · Let’s talk about Hedi Slimane · Fall 2016
Who is Anthony Vaccarello?
A Belgian-Italian designer who ran his own label and briefly led Versus Versace before Saint Laurent appointed him in 2016. His Saint Laurent is sexy and sharp: strong shoulders, sheer fabrics, smoking suits and the house’s 70s and 80s glamour. He has also expanded the house into film production.
Read on Ayerhs: Spring 2019: Opium Ode · Spring 2024: Safari Chic · Fall 2025 · Spring 2026 · Fall 2026
Codes and business
Is it YSL or Saint Laurent?
Both. In 2012 Hedi Slimane renamed the ready-to-wear line Saint Laurent Paris, echoing the 1966 Rive Gauche label. The interlocking YSL logo is still used on bags, accessories and beauty, and the beauty line is still sold as YSL Beauté.
Who owns Saint Laurent?
Kering, which acquired the house through the Gucci Group in 1999. It is Kering’s second-largest brand after Gucci.
Read on Ayerhs: The Rise of Fashion Conglomerates
The Ayerhs view
How good is Saint Laurent under Vaccarello?
Consistently strong. Vaccarello has kept Saint Laurent’s attitude clear for a decade, and recent seasons have been some of his best: cinematic drama and scrumptious jackets for Spring 2026, then Le Smoking back at the heart of the house for Fall 2026.