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Spring 2016 brought together Mariano Fortuny’s pleated Delphos dress and the free, expressive dancing of Isadora Duncan and Loïe Fuller. The first look was even called “Isadorable”. Models walked barefoot down a gilded runway scattered with rose petals, with gold anklets on their feet and gold metal snakes twisted into their hair, like nymphs from an early twentieth-century Venice.
By now a Valentino dress was instantly recognisable: usually floor-length and seemingly modest, but full of sheer layers, sparkle and deep Grecian necklines. Long, billowing pleated chiffon gowns and kimono-sleeved robes made up much of the show, and it ended on a run of white gowns.
Velvet was the real star. It came pleated, painted, aged and even knotted into a web, in moss green, burgundy and absinthe yellow. The highlight was a green velvet brocade gown with a train and a sheer bodice, where the brocade pattern had been cut out and sewn back on by hand.
It came in a gloomy couture season, and critics treated it as the exception. Angelo Flaccavento singled Valentino out from the general melancholy, 10 Magazine called it business as usual, with the business being to make women dream, and Wallpaper filed it under the season’s escapism. The designers themselves talked about wanting to make clothes that last.
They got there. Several of these dresses would look just as right today.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed and Valentino Garavani: The Complete Guide.
Previous collection: Valentino Fall 2015 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Fall 2016 Couture
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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