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Spring 2015 is a love story. The mood board mixed Shakespeare, Dante’s Inferno and the paintings of Marc Chagall, whose exhibition in Milan the designers had just seen. Piccioli admired how Chagall stayed optimistic through a hard life, and Chiuri described being in love as a kind of flying.
Chagall’s road from Russia to Paris set the tone for the decoration. That meant Russian folk embroidery and smocking, leather flowers on rough linen, naive needlepoint on long pinafores worn over smocked shirts, and a shearling vest covered in leather paillettes. Lines of love poetry were embroidered into the clothes. The evening pieces were dreamier: tulle gowns stitched with rainbows or silver clouds, and a strapless dress like a night sky scattered with gold stars.
The best pieces, though, were the simplest and most grown-up: a light blue velvet dress that could have come straight from Verona, a quilted red velvet caftan, and a black velvet dress with a bodice shaped like wings. A gown with a molten gold bodice and a line from Dante stitched on the skirt is the one everyone remembers.
Reactions were warm. Susannah Frankel found it delicately beautiful and lovely to wear, and Dazed called it a folkloric love story. Susie Bubble admitted the theme was about as indulgent as it gets, but said it still won over her cynical side. The fair criticism is that some of the folk pieces looked a little too homespun for a house built on glamour.
Sincere and romantic, and at its best when it lets the velvet do the talking.
More Valentino: see every Valentino couture collection we have reviewed and Valentino Garavani: The Complete Guide.
Previous collection: Valentino Fall 2014 Couture · Next collection: Valentino Fall 2015 Couture
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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