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It was snowing in Paris, and inside the Grand Palais there was a sunlit Italian villa with a pool, palm trees and a sweeping staircase. This was Karl Lagerfeld’s last couture collection for Chanel. He did not come out for his bow, and Virginie Viard took it in his place. He died a few weeks later.
The collection is calm and full of his beloved eighteenth century. The starting point was Madame de Pompadour, who had porcelain flowers made so that her houses could bloom in winter. Lagerfeld had the ateliers recreate them in feathers, hand-painted sequins and even dried flowers dipped in resin, on organza, chiffon, lace, leather and tweed. Lace was painted or piped with silicone to look like blue and white china. Tulle was shredded so finely that it looked like swansdown.
The tailoring was lean, with a firm angled shoulder, pencil skirts and soft boat necklines made by folding the collar back. Now and then the narrow line broke into ruffles or loops draped at the hips like panniers. Tiers of fine pleated chiffon recalled his work at Chloé in the 1970s.
The bride wore a swimsuit embroidered with silver flowers. It was a light, witty note to end on. Knowing what came after, this serene and beautiful collection is very moving to look back at.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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