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This is the last collection Alexander McQueen worked on. He died in February 2010, and the sixteen looks, about eighty percent finished, were completed by Sarah Burton and his team. They were shown a month later in Paris to small groups of editors in a gilded room, with no runway and no spectacle.
After the digital prints and live stream of Plato’s Atlantis, McQueen had turned back to handcraft. Dark Ages art was on his mind, and he was finding light in it. Paintings of angels and of Bosch’s demons were photographed and woven into jacquards, then cut into grand gowns with capes and shorter dresses that were draped. The long dresses were fluted and calm, with the grace of medieval Madonnas and Byzantine empresses. Heads were bound in bandages, some with a crest of feathers.
One look holds everything he was. A high-collared cutaway jacket made entirely of golden feathers, over a white tulle skirt embroidered with gold at the hem. It brought back his first couture collection for Givenchy, and joined his tailoring to his romanticism one last time.
There is no anger in these clothes. They are serene, and the craft is at the level of haute couture. It is impossible to look at them without feeling the loss. A quiet and beautiful goodbye.
More McQueen: see every Alexander McQueen show from 1992 to 2010 and Alexander McQueen: The Complete Guide.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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