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Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Spring 2026 RTW debut is… complicated. Not my favorite, and at times genuinely unsettling, yet it’s undeniably thoughtful in its conception. From the start, the show set a tense, surreal tone: 61 children in oversized tuxedos playing Mozart, Strauss, and Beethoven, juxtaposed against models with metallic “Four Stitch” mouthpieces holding forced smiles. It was creepy, theatrical, and not remotely subtle, but it sparked conversation, a nod to Margiela’s legacy of conceptual provocation.
Martens treads carefully between homage and invention. Tailoring retains archival sharpness with rounded shoulders, cutaway tuxedo fronts, drop-crotch trousers — while slip dresses, floral prints, and plasticized tape details translate couture gestures into wearable RTW. Denim and leather anchor the collection, reintroducing house codes with a modern, slightly softer edge. Even heel-less footwear and Tabi Claw sandals feel eerily familiar yet refreshingly updated.
Yet, the mouthpieces are jarring, a reminder that Margiela’s anonymity can feel oppressive when literalized. d. The collection’s experimental energy coexists with surprisingly practical wearability: jackets layered over slip dresses, floral-printed knits, and draped satin. Martens balances archival reverence with innovation, hinting at Margiela’s past while building a platform for the future. This collection does remind me that Margiela isn’t about comfort or conformity
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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