All about Paris Fashion Week Spring 2023

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by brownfashionagal

Christian Dior: This might be Maria Grazia Chirui’s best collection for Dior and I’m happy. Inspired by Catherine de Medici the collection featured hoop cage skirts, lace collars, dainty florals, voluminous shirts and structured corsets. A focus on strong silhouettes took over this collection; pieces were mostly made in luxurious gold, black and shades of white. This collection was the best blend of MGC’s design aesthetic and Dior’s timeless charm. The feminism Chiuri has been trying to portray all this while finally came through.

Courreges: Imagine people leaving a rave at a beach after a night of intense partying. Nicolas Di Felice has made Courreges his own and it shows. The brand is getting younger and hotter each season. The styling in this collection was casual yet created to stand out. There were hints of Courreges archive and Y2K trends present here along with the designer’s party inspired aesthetic. The clothes carried a sense of freedom and unapologetic sex appeal and I am here for it.

Saint Laurent: Saint Laurent served us with some timeless pieces. Anthony Vaccarello goes back to the YSL roots with the ‘capuche’ gowns along with some delicious minimalism. A wide range of trench coats, bomber jackets and sleek skin-tight gowns. Sophisticated silhouettes created with a restrained color palette of greens, purples, browns, maroons and blacks. Simple and quiet seduction pierces through the clothes; Parisian glamour at its best.

Dries Van Noten: Two words – Father Dries. The collection is a representation of darkness to light. The collection evolves in three parts; the purity of black through impeccably tailored garments, the suggestion of color in faded pastels to add lightness and an explosion of colorful florals to bring in optimism. The closing floral looks created with soft silhouettes and flowy fabrics are a true testament to the brilliance of the designer; the master of prints has done it yet again. Simply beautifully made clothes!

Rochas: The craftsmanship communicated through the delicately layered ruffles and clean tailoring was visible throughout the collection. This collection had a lot more romance than Charles de Vilmorin usually offers; there were tulle capes, magenta dresses and loads of ruffles. While this collection lacked sophistication and cohesion there were a few decent moments. And hopefully, there will (should) be more.

Acne Studios: The brand celebrates its 10 year anniversary at PFW this season. This was a wedding-inspired show and like weddings, this was tacky yet loveable. There were lace minidresses, dangerously draped satin gowns, bodycon knitwear, distressed leather jackets, gingham suits and some pink bow pasties. The clothes carried romance and innocence even while being evidently seductive.

Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli is riding high on the now tried and tested gold-heavy surreal aesthetic curated over the past couple of years by Daniel Roseberry. He decided to take this aesthetic towards more regular wearable silhouettes. He adds some unrealistic glam to the ordinary. From skirt suits with embellished ants to cone-shaped breasts – all loaded with gold jewelry. Exquisite tailoring is a constant throughout showcasing the craftsmanship of the house. Only Magical Clothes!

Chloe: Gabriela Hearst is not only putting out sublime collections for her namesake brand but also Chloe. The collections do have minute overlaps now and then but Chloe is more refined and sure of itself. The collection boasts of lower-impact materials that make up 64% of the collection. The designer continues to push sustainable fashion efforts in her work. Along with some extremely desirable beautifully crafted clothes like color-blocked leather jackets, wool suiting and leather dresses.

Uma Wang: This collection was titled ‘A gaze into Wilderness’. Created from earthy neutral colors and raw yet elevated design elements; the clothes were simply stunning. The shapes were big, structured and crafted to make an impact. A collection so wonderfully grounded and in touch with today. This is clearly a successful feat by the designer that stands out as one of the most intriguing collections of this season.

Balmain: While this was certainly not a personal favorite, I do appreciate it for what it is. Olivier makes beautiful delicious clothes; there is no doubt about that. We witnessed impeccable couture-like creations complimenting the historic Renaissance reference that ruled the collection. With 7000 people in the audience and a surprise appearance by Cher, this collection was energetic and inclusivity. Even with a collection that had a hundred looks, Olivier does push the agenda of Sustainability via ‘earth-friendly fabrics’ and also utilizing raw and undyed fabrics. The designer certainly has been a pioneer in championing diversity at Balmain I can only hope he leads the industry to a more lasting sustainable ecosystem. The way Balmain design signatures are blended with innovative techniques is a testament to the craftsmanship of the Balmain atelier.

Ludovic De Saint Sernin: How to be minimal and sexy? This collection is your answer. Titled ‘Mirage’ this collection features unapologetic and unfiltered sensuality. But sensuality for everyone – regardless of gender and identity. The collection sure is gender inclusive but the brand needs to do more to be body inclusive as well. There were heavy early 2000 references blended with LdSS’s uber-sexy aesthetic. Pleated mini skirts, Swarovski mesh pieces, slinky halters, sheer tops and low-slung trousers. There was more focus on daywear this season with a clear but unspoken inclusion of the designer’s signature motifs. Hot as ever!

Isabel Marant: If there ever was an aesthetic Parisian cool girl core it would be basically comprised of Isabel Marant’s clothes. The collection features silhouettes and codes updated for the modern day, drawing inspiration from the house’s beginnings in the 1990s. The clothes radiate a strong sense of lightness and youthfulness. There was a wide range of blended aesthetics from the 90s to bohemian chic to tropical daywear; this was also reflected in a wide range of timeless separates. Effortless clothes are always in and so is Isabel Marant.

Rick Owens: The history & eternal beauty of Egypt served as the inspiration for the collection titled “EDFU”; the temples in Egypt were built by one civilization, expanded by another, finished by a third, and then unearthed by a fourth. Rick Owens’s signatures were transformed with a more romantic approach. There were some big billowing tulle gowns; very anti-Rick yet blended well with the collection. The designer said “It’s a rejection of conventional prettiness. So that is another form of protest, I want to offer another option other than the narrow parameters that we’re stuck with.” Each look is a representation of the designer’s mastery.

Alexandre Vauither: A small collection of extravagant clothes! Riding hard on the tried and tested Vauthier formula the designer showcases his best. There is a clear vision that is visible in not only every collection but in each garment. The clothes are bold, dramatic and seductive; They also act as an extension of his revered Couture line. The collection is very 80’s glamour which is the Vauthier signature and I love it for what it is!

Loewe: These days it is very rare to see a collection by Jonathan Anderson that does not leave social media drooling or arguing. And if that is not a sign of a successful designer I don’t know what is. Thought-provoking is a very overused word in fashion and I might have also used it with liberty in the past – but if I was to ever describe Anderson’s work it would be thought-provoking. Some stand-out items in this collection were anthurium bustiers, pixelated sweatshirts, velvet pannier dresses and draped cocktail dresses and some pleated mini polo dresses. The collection’s minimal rich nature-inspired details added authenticity and drama.

Victoria Beckham: This collection did serve some quite beautiful dresses; sensual silhouettes, relaxed cuts and luxurious fabrics come together seamlessly. A red tailored suit was a stand-out look along with some heavily fringed clutch bags. The designer has been hard at work reworking her brand and her business and seems like it’s going in the right direction for a change. Along with a new perspective on the contemporary, it affirms the brand’s defining design characteristics and brand signatures. This Paris debut by Beckham is a surefire hit and maybe it will stick this time

Coperni: Coperni gave us a major fashion moment; most are calling it iconic. Bella Hadid ended the collection with a spray-painted dress on her bare body. A visual reminiscent of the truly iconic Alexander McQueen Spring 1999 closing performed by Shalom Harlow. Bella’s moment overtook the internet and honestly kinda well deserved. Some other stand-out items were asymmetrical slinky dresses, body suits worn under power-shouldered bomber jackets, relaxed low-slung trousers, sheer mesh tops and a dress made up of 1000 shards of glass embroidered on silk. This Coperni show will be a remarkable show for the brand for ages to come and definitely a landmark moment in fashion tech and innovation.

Noir Kei Ninomiya: Noir Kei Ninomiya explores the concepts of a ‘mystic force’ with fantastical volumes, dramatic details and spectacular construction. This collection along with mystic forces was inspired by the emotions we experience as children when we come across something unexpected. Mostly constructed in classic black and white with occasional teal. Floating fairy-like chandelier looks ended the collection in the most fitting romantic way possible.

Hermes: Desert, sunset & sand; this Hermes collection was heavily influenced by these. Practical pieces made of simple silhouettes and diverse materials. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski the creative director was inspired by ‘a rave in the desert’ that gave us some lux extra earthy fashion moments. A lineup with totally utilitarian intentions; the only problem is a Hermes customer actually ‘needing’ sturdy rough garments is a rare scenario. Nevertheless, we saw some beautifully made clothes.

Comme Des Garcons: There are actual Couture houses that don’t have this level of construction craftsmanship and conceptualization like Comme des Garçons. This collection was mostly in black and white with massive extravagant volumes; the collection ended with some gorgeous floral jacquards. The beauty of a CDG show is that each look is open for total interpretation and opinions; you never really know what the designer was thinking. This authority and challenge of deconstructing a piece of clothing is what makes watching Rei Kawakubo’s work so immersive and fascinating. She describes her collection as – “A lamentation for the sorrow in the world today/ And a feeling of wanting to stand together.”

Ottolinger: Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch are ready to take over this season! “The collection is about not looking back. They are ready for a mission and ready for what’s going on now,” the designers told WWD. They blend their hi-tech sporty design sensibilities with 2000s aesthetics. Construction and deconstruction are both done quite well here. We see a lot of micro bra tops and low waist cargo pants – the y2k fashion flag bearers. There were sheer tops, biker shorts, bodycon dresses, bodysuits and second-skin skirts; each item amping up the sexy in the sporty.

Balanciaga: This collection was muddy literally and metaphorically; especially the mess that came after this Balenciaga show. The clothes in this collection were combative and utilitarian with a heavy war-torn apocalyptic. The designer Demna picks instances from his own life for this collection. This subversion of distressing and depressing concepts is well done but also feels like an attempt to get some virality with outrageous content. Security jackets, curly scarves, bodycon maxis, oversized suiting, cargo pants and black leather trash bags. As thoughtful as it was this actually might be my least favorite collection by Demna.

Valentino: In this collection, the designer aims to subtract and simplify to bring the clothes down to a level of pureness that contradicts the Valentino Couture extravaganza. We see some floaty flowy gowns, head-to-toe monogram looks, sheer cocktail dresses, full statement skirts and a series of sleekly tailored black gowns. There were a few shimmery sequined separate pieces that added some liveliness and joy to the collection. This collection does justice to the name ‘Unboxing Valentino’ there is a sense of lightness and lucidity in each garment.

Givenchy: Make it stop! Matthew Williams has been blessed with an extended grace period and it needs to end now. We have gone years without Givenchy Couture; and now with the ultra build-up hype and with the designer’s track record, it is obvious he won’t be able to live up to it anyway. The clothes were atrocious and that is me being nice. The construction was especially shabby in the initial looks along with a color palette that just strains the eyes. Some individual pieces were decent buys but the try-hard styling didn’t add much to the show. While the collection did close with some sleek minimal gowns but the damage was already done.

Olivier Theyskens: It is hard to comprehend that this intricate Couture-like collection was created by just 6 people on Theyskens’s team. It is clear that the designer is designing for himself and for the pure sake of creative expression. The thought and execution behind this collection were a product of the unfavorable pandemic circumstances, but have paved the way for the designer to showcase his sustainable and delicate garments. This collection was the third of the three collections he dedicated to this concept. Theyskens continued with his rather glorious approach which has now become a remarkable chapter in his career. There was masterful tailoring, detailed patchwork, dainty ruffles, and vintage-feeling adornments.

Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney goes back to her brand roots this time; it’s also the brand’s more sustainable collection yet with over 85 % made up of conscious materials. Impeccable tailoring on slinky silhouettes presents us with a minimal refined and sultry McCartney woman. There was oversized suiting, asymmetrical co-ords, tailored jumpsuits, gold chained body jewelry; touches of her previous work are persistent in the garments. The blend of 90s & early 2000 aesthetics with refined womanly elements result in some very scrumptious clothes.

Sacai:Chitose Abe blends her streetstyle influences with some couture-like construction or rather deconstruction! Tuxedos, bomber jackets, trenches, button downs were transformed into garments with more movement and substance. There was a significant focus on pleats, pockets, slit sleeves, flared pants and black tie tailoring. A wide range of textures and neutral shades come together to elevate the collection to one of the season’s best.

Thom Browne: ‘an American prom mixed with Cindrella mixed with the Paris Opera’ Thom Browne has a rather spectacular vision for this collection. Each season he brings a theatrical mind-blowing concept to the runway. Gwendoline Christie opened the collection in a navy silk satin gold embroidered oversized robe; Haute Couture could shy away from Browne’s work. Then come massive dress coats in a plethora of variations and colors(pastels to neutrals). Then came one quintessential look in 3 colors red, blue and green – cropped jacket, exposed corset belt and pleated full skirt. Then there was a wave of polka dot splattered pastel outfits. This collection had edge, humor and glamour; 3 characteristics only a few designers have the talent to incorporate. Thom Fucking Browne!

Zimmermann: This Zimmermann collection is a gorgeous slew of tropical floral clothes; the brand is dedicated to its core aesthetic but has the skill not to be redundant. Shades of sunset and pristine tones of white provide a dreamy base to the clothes; then adorned by ruffles, lace, crochet and shells. Even with artfully made clothes, there is a sense of raw natural energy that only ends up adding sophistication to the texture-rich garments. The silhouettes are accentuated with movement and flow. Zimmerman has a knack for making truly beautiful clothes that people want to wear and this collection proves that best.

Lanvin: Every article of clothing in this collection Carried a strong sense of rawness and elegance. The garments were crafted out of simple colors and sharp tailoring. Bruno Sialelli continues to lead the brand to a contemporary and customer-preferred aesthetic. Couture-like craftsmanship married with organic raw energy presents us with some pristine clothes. The accessories were very intriguing with some very arresting pumps. 1920’s & 30s influences and design aesthetics blended with solid patterns, lux embellishments and floral motifs. A powerful collection by the designer, keeping the Lanvin identity alive with a strong sense of subtle modern luxury.

Rokh: Titled ‘The Irrational View’ Rok Hwang blessed us with a perfectly rationally spectacular collection. The construction and deconstruction were both endless and timeless. There were some recurring Rokh staples like pleated skirts, strapless dresses and skirt panels. The trench coats were showcased with all possible combinations. There were visible contrasting stitches, detached sleeves, leather bra tops, statement belts and more wardrobe essentials bringing forward a brand-new energy.

AZ Factory: This collection was designed by an Amigo ”Lutz Huelle’ for AZ Factory. The foundational elements in this collection were dark luxurious denim, vivid floral prints and puffed taffeta included in most designs to enhance shapes and drama. We saw sequent pants, ruffled shirts, sweeping pleated skirts, statement cocktail dresses and breezy shirt dresses were some standout items. A collection built upon simplicity and elegance while keeping the brand heritage alive; the Amigo plan seems to be working well for the brand.

Miu Miu: Miuccia Prada continues to send sultry clothes down the runway and I just love her for it. This younger Prada counterpart gets more real this season with relatively simple garments styled uniquely with nuance. The designer continues with the aesthetic and approach lined out in the spring 2022 collection that hyped up the brand to the masses. Hardcore utilitarian elements paired with sharp tailoring come together to deliver the ‘uniforms’ Mrs. Prada has pioneered.

Louis Vuitton: While it has always been a little difficult for me to digest Nicolas Ghesquière’s LV this collection was particularly hard. Not only the collection was oversized this was also overdone. The designer aims to celebrate the elements that bring a piece of clothing together be it a zipper, buckle, clasp or lock; these details are crucial to the construction of garments and the brand’s heritage as well. The sad part is conceptually it was intriguing but the execution just does not look good; the clothes feel forced and bulk. The mega-sized belts were interesting along with a few leather dresses and a couple of dainty shimmery dresses. A collection that was big yet small.

Chanel: The first step towards writing a review for Chanel is to search for synonyms for the word ‘hopeless’. There is playing it safe and then there is playing it dead. The collection inspired by the 1961 movie ‘L’Année Dernière à Marienbad’ was all black and white with the usual shapes and silhouette. The designer probably aims to design for the everyday woman but unfortunately, it comes across as a lack of thoughtfulness and effort in her garments. The redundancy and monotony in Virginie’s work is now crossing levels; Chanel deserves better.

GmbH: Titled ‘Ghazal’ this was a dramatic exploration of South Asian cultures. But for a change, it wasn’t through rose-tinted glasses but a more nuanced personal view. While the clothing aesthetic was sporty and seductive, there was a sense of pureness and spirituality that took over the energy of the collection. Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Isik have presented one of the most remarkable collections yet and it has only added to curious expectations from the designer duo. One of the most beautiful lines from the designer that has stayed with me is worth sharing – “GmbH is a project of unlearning, as we work towards decolonising our minds.”

Botter: This collection was a lot about water the; brand explores the deep blue sea and included it seamlessly into the designs. There was a lot of Botter blue – if the designers play their cards right this has the potential to become a major brand signifier. Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter also dive deep into Fabric development it and more sustainable options for their brand. There were Kaun relaxed Suiting and form-fitting seductive dresses and water-filled condom gloves.