Alberta Ferretti: This collection was all Ferretti from the first look to the last one. With energetic natural colors and soft flowy silhouettes; this collection offered some statement everyday pieces. Some highlights included organza tops, macramé dresses, airy jackets, relaxed trousers and crocheted bodices. There were some signature eveningwear moments too! With this collection, the designer strikes the balance between daywear and eveningwear – something the brand has been keen on doing for a while. Even though this collection had hints of the Italian x early 2000s x gaudiness it serves as nostalgia rather than dismay.
Blumarine: We meet the Blumarine mermaid this season; she is raw, seductive and impactful. The clothes get a bit of refined grunge injected this season; there was denim overload, deep oceanic colors, trailing flared trousers and second-skin silhouettes. The Blumarine logo and roses get seductively powerful with each collection along with some more developing brand design language. Nicola Brognano has been very subtle yet quick in his attempts to create a more elaborate world that isn’t all about Y2K. The Blumarine girl keeps our hopes up.
Bottega Veneta: Bottega is on its way back to becoming a pioneer in quite luxury; something that Daniel Lee wasn’t keen on. While he paved the way with viral ‘it’ products, it is Matthieu Blazy who will lead the brand into an enduring legacy. The construction and tailoring here are sublime and are an ode to the craftsmanship of the artists. This detailed work when paired with simple everyday garments elevates the sincerity and necessity of Bottega. There were some scrumptious leather bags and statement-making heels; of course, Bottega has to have some irresistible accessories.
Diesel: Ladies and Gentlemen! Glenn Martens has done it again. No crumbs left. Years from now students in fashion colleges across the world would be studying Glenn Martens’s work. If you thought denim means jeans or an occasional jacket then this collection is here to change your mind. Denim is explored in countless ways both technically and conceptually. There were Denim corsets, sheer denim pieces and ruffled denim taking the form of fur among many others. A blend of street, Y2K, utility and couture come together to serve us with a collection to remember. Experimentation was at the heart of this collection and so was the craftmanship. The diesel team has elevated Denim to new heights under Martens’s vision, and keep in mind this is just the beginning.
Matty Bovan: Matty Bovan presented us with his most cohesive and thoughtful collection yet. The colors? Enchanting The silhouettes? Surreal! A psychedelic blend of raving statement-making prints and kaleidoscopic colors. The silhouettes were cinematic and overpowering; There was a load of corsets and D&G archival accessories completing the drama. This collection is the definition of maximalism.
Del Core: This collection features some of the most well-crafted creations by the designer. Daniel references the ocean and his own diving experiences in this collection. With couture-like craftsmanship and sleek sculpted tailoring, this collection elevates Del Core’s design aesthetics and potential to new levels. There were structured suiting, satin slip dresses, dramatic capes, brocade co-ords and bustier bodices. There is a strong energy of movement and vividity in the garments. While this collection is deeply feminine and luxurious it does carry a powerful commanding aura to it.
Fendi: Is ‘blah’ an acceptable runway review because that’s pretty much what this Fendi collection was.
Emporio Armani: The theme for this collection was lightness. Lightness was communicated using various means like sequins, sheer textures, roomy garments and pastel hues. There were softly tailored blazers, sophisticated sarongs, relaxed trousers and utilitarian separates. The lineup ended with some translucent shimmery gowns – classic Armani yet very contemporary. Armani has always been a Pioneer in traditional elegant luxury; this collection proved the same.
Etro: This collection was Marco de Vincenzo’s debut for Etro; one of the big debuts this spring 2023. This collection has indicators of a youthful and contemporary energy that the designer clearly aims to bring. With this connection Vincenzo hopes to explore more design aesthetics and signatures for the brand; it was a surprisingly delightful try. While time will tell how will this switch will perform commercially, they are the same potential and hope. Maybe now Etro can be more than a brand whose creative signature is ‘borrowed’ from another country. The clothes featured some gorgeous multicolor degrade knit dresses along with denim brocade, tiny bra tops, bold co-ords, boho-esque outerwear and ombre minidresses. An exquisitely crafted, simple yet powerful debut.
GCDS: We enter a world of sexy Bikini Bottom with this GCDS collection. Titled ‘Alien disco’ this collection is an exploration of feeling like an outsider aka alien via a quirky and playful approach. A lot of ultra-seductive second skin fits follow the brand aesthetic deeply and when paired with SpongeBob SquarePants motifs it not only adds humor but a sense of thoughtfulness. There were colorful mesh bodysuits, distressed Denim co words, bold swimwear and some seductive slip dresses. GCDS brought a much-needed sense of humor and relaxation this season.
Gucci: Gucci send pairs of identical twins down the runway and people freaked out. There was something arresting about identical twins walking down the runway; a sense of collective and singularity through a vision of duality. While conceptually this was quite fascinating it is difficult for me to comprehend the hideousness of these clothes. While individually some items were quite nice the styling was hopelessly overdone and messy; even with the misdirected Italian gaudiness factored in. There was intense theatre in this show hence the hype on social media and spirited coverage. But sadly this might be my least favorite collection by the rather brilliant Alessandro Michele. The last thing I want to do is looks at these clothes twice.
Jil Sander: This season Lucie and Luke Meier what together menswear and womenswear back to the runway. We saw relaxed sophisticated tailoring on neutral colors and luxurious textures. This collection is minimalism at its best especially when paired with couture-like craftsmanship. These clothes that an individual can wear every day with an emphasis on comfort and wearability. Even with simplicity in the focus, there was no lack of glam in the clothes, especially towards the end. Jil Sander serves us luscious clothes as always.
Max Mara: We got what we deserve – simple sublime tailoring on evergreen silhouettes. It’s really hard to dislike a collection because the simplicity and timelessness the brand offers is truly for everyone. Ian Griffiths explores French Riviera, 1930s, Eileen Gray, Jacques-Henri Lartigue and his muse Renée Perle. With such rich sources of inspiration, the clothes are bound to be delicious. The tailoring in this collection was truly enchanting – sleek skirts, soft outerwear, wide-leg trousers and stunningly fitted dresses. The interpretation of century-old styles filtered with modern elements makes this collection a season favorite.
Missoni: If you showed me this collection a year ago, you couldn’t pay to convince me that this was Missoni. In a day and age where every Heritage house is hoping to revamp itself with a hip brand new designer; Filippo Grazioli seems to be e 360 turn from Missoni’s iconic signatures. There were bold colors and graphic prints laid on top of a range of seductive silhouettes. Grazioli will take a while to find his footing at the brand but the direction he has chosen is certainly impressive and confident.
Moschino: This collection was just Moschino being Moschino! There was some colorful Inflatable high fashion and I’m very much here for it. The idea for inflatable fashion came to Jeremy Scott because of the rising costs and inflation rates around the world. I mean that’s just brilliant! In a frenzy of colors and extravaganza, the looks that surprisingly stood out were some simple black tailored pieces decorated with bright red hearts. A lot of 80s silhouettes, nautical references and dramatic inflatable eveningwear. Each piece is layered with thoughtful humor – something Scott now excels at. The charm of Moschino lies in its excess and this collection was excessively fun
MSGM: This collection was a lot about love and weddings – the clothes reflected optimism, light and playful. There were sheer tulle skirts, heavily ruched dresses, lace leggings, ruffled mini dresses and tiny bikinis. There was a lot of transparency and lace in this collection – a blend of lingerie and bridal wear. The clothes were bold and uber sexy with the potential to be styled for any occasion.
Prada: A dive back into Prada’s minimalist roots and 90s charm. Original Miuccia with a Raf twist! what more could a Prada girl ask for? Oversized tailoring starts off the show and then we see some quite awkward ill-fitting jumpsuits completely intended to be that way. Leather skirt suits, blazers with trains, sheer knitted skirts and boxy mini dresses were some defining pieces in this lineup. The primary theme for this collection was raw and undone energy. Wrinkled sweaters, undyed edges in dresses, raw-edged skirt hems along with more twists, wrinkles & creases in fabrics showcase this perspective; while also nodding back to some previous landmark Prada collections. This collection was dark, powerful and Prada all the way.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini: Lorenzo Serafini is slowly growing on me, this collection was a sea of delight. He was inspired by photographs of Romeo Gigli’s work shot by the legendary photographer Paolo Roversi. This collection had some well-crafted clothes full of femininity and romance. Simplicity is the key word behind the clothes; classic silhouettes, strategically sensual cuts and neutral colors. Surprisingly a standout collection of the season; love to see it!
Sunnei: Sunnei used identical twins this season; first one twin walks the runway in their own personal clothing and then the other one comes dressed in Sunnei Spring 2023. This collection hopes to urge a person to think about fashion and its impact on individual identity. While the concept was quite interesting the clothes here were nothing to talk about. This Sunnei collection was bearable at best.
Versace: There was a lot of goth, grunge and glamour in this collection. Purple and black were the primary colors here with hints of pink; adding to the glam Rock chic energy. A lot of references to archives and playing on the 90s nostalgia that is bound to connect with countless fans. The collection started with some subversive all-black looks featuring leather jackets, fringed bags, strappy heels and form-fitting dresses. The collection moved to more sprightly looks with a lot of prints and excessive layering. The collection ended with a series of solid-colored laced babydolls worn with veils – extremely reminiscent of 90s runway shows. This collection was Versace on point.
Vivetta: Vivietta had a moment this season. Vivetta Ponti was all about hearts this season. Heart-shaped belt heart cutouts, heart bra tops – it was endless. There was an injection of Y2K in this collection that fits well with the seductive flirty aesthetic curated by the brand. The designer was inspired by an experiment from the 1960s where a scientist measured the emotional response of plants and leaves. There was a sense of playful hyper-femininity; the excess of it ended up making it more desirable. Well, I hearted it.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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