We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Proenza Schouler: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are killing it for real. Proenza Schouler has been on a hot streak for a couple of seasons now, this collection is no exception. Filled with Latin references along with a focus on effortless movement. Poufy skirts, lux knits, ruched leather, fringed tops, extra flared pants, flamenco sleeves and tweed coats were some recurring favorites. The clothes featured sharp tailoring and clean cuts offering a classic day-to-night lineup.
Tia Adeola: Loaded with sensuality, drama and glamour; Adeola was heavily inspired by Thierry Mugler and the collection featured Victorian references. Sheer lace dresses, feathered gowns, sexy crop tops, butterfly pasties and shimmery mini jumpsuits were some standouts. A collection with substance and realistic beauty; all with some much-needed glamour. And for all the ruffle lovers out there this collection is a dream.
Collina Strada: Hillary Taymour showcases a softer aesthetic this season; all along with her whimsy Y2K signatures. Effortless styling is the key to Collina Strada’s relaxed relatable energy, again done right here. Consider this the brand’s foray into eveningwear; we saw some gorgeous traditionally feminine gowns. Held in a cemetery turned butterfly preserve, this collection communicates the fleeting charm of life quite well. Cargo pants, broccoli bags, sheer knits, jelly sandals and some colorful floral prints were some favorite elements. The denim was made in collab with Unspun, a startup that 3D scans the body in 15 secs to order custom-fit jeans. This collection served!
Reem Acra: A lot of pretty and some pretty okay dresses. Ultra lux fabrics, feather trimmings, intricate embellishments and lots of colorful jacquards made up this collection. There were dramatic capes and mini jumpsuits, palazzo pants and kaftans; something for everyone. Regal looks fit for women ready to take over!
Monse: A Monse collection will always feature unique cuts and patterns. Paired with refined relaxed tailoring, the clothes here were simply quite desirable It was a strong collection by Monse after was a while, glad to see it. Statement elements included lace-up detailing, cropped jackets, asymmetrically draped skirts, sheer shirts and more. Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim who are also the creative directors of Oscar de la Renta said “The undergarments of Oscar became the garments of Monse”. Striking sporty energy meets upscale craftsmanship.
Elena Velez: Titled ‘ In Glass’ this collection was an unapologetic expression of feminine fire; the designer calls it ‘aggressively delicate’. The defining elements in this collection were the strategic cuts and rough tailoring. The silhouettes were not just seductive but portrayed a sense of dominance and power. The collection was described by Velez to WWD as “‘A bloodletting for woman in her most insufferable and divine glory; iron-forged, erotic, extraterrestrial, esoterically burdened and communing in dark magic sorority. A shrieking display of female hysteria reverberating back against cultural hypocrisy, anatomical subjugation and the confiscation of volition.”
Jason Wu: Jason Wu takes to route toward minimalistic elegance this season. A very 90s-New York- sultry – lux aesthetic drove the collection. The designer focused on the construction of the clothes and how each aspect of construction from inside to out is key to the final garment. This idea resulted in a lot of see-through pieces. Flower prints, micro tulle ruching, shimmery sheer fabrics, soft draping and asymmetrical dresses were some elements that shaped the garments. Soft fabrics add airiness and glam to this collection. The eveningwear boasted of sheet tulle gowns, sheer shimmery gowns and shiny tinsel fringed dresses.
Sergio Hudson (Fall 2022): This is how to do Retro Glam! Bold statement colors and sharp tailoring; these Hudson staples were well visible in this collection. The 80s meet present resulted in some powerful monochromatic looks. Power suits were the driving force here. Sharp cuts and immaculate tailoring reflect the timeless appeal the clothes possess.
Prabal Gurung: This collection looked like a mix of at least 7 different designers and aesthetics. A lot was going on there; the collection lacked the simplicity and sophistication that Gurung excels at. He aimed to reflect upon some partygoers and their wild style; misfits as it was called. There were cropped blazers, sheer pantsuits, ruched skirts, latex leggings, Y2k minis and more. The collection was closed by 3 dual-toned tulle gowns; an underwhelming end to a forgettable lineup. Prabal Gurung is way too good to be putting out a collection like this.
Marni: First things first; the color palate in this collection was nothing but sublime. Colors inspired by romantic Italian sunrises and sunsets; it was intensely pigmented and color blocked. Francesco Risso took a major step up from last season’s debacle. The statement recurring motif was a circle, there were circle prints and cutouts. There were oversized trenches, skin-tight dresses, mini skirts, crop tops, leather blazers and sarongs. There was a softness in movement and the fabrics themselves elevated with soft tailoring.
Khaite: One of the most surprisingly remarkable collections this NYFW. Delicious tailoring and sultry silhouettes result in some must-haves. Satin blazers, tulle tops, crystal-loaded dresses, fringed skirts, and sequined draped dresses were just some of the highlights. “That independent, New York, strong, stealth woman—that is who I’m designing for,” the designer told Vogue. The tailoring was sharp and the silhouettes were dominating. The collection you need to make a mark; a major It-Girl moment indeed.
Dion Lee: Dion Lee also leans into the Y2K – crop top gets more structured, mini skirts, 00s-esque cutouts and low waisted cargos. The designer explores the connection between nature and everyday New york. Layered strategic cuts were present in almost every look adding a futuristic appeal. Brazenly sexy and bold! This collection is all Dion Lee and is a testament to his recent success and hype.
Ulla Johnson: This collection featured an intoxicating color palette and a deep exploration of intriguing textures. Graden-hued clothes strutted down the runway in the forms of crocheted dresses, relaxed suits, ruffle-tiered dresses and bubble skirts. The signature Ulla prints ranged from florals to ikat adding a sense of collective to the collection. This collection is the definition of lux bohemian!
Altuzarra: Another Altuzarra Hit! The collection started with some excellently layered outfits featuring lux knits, mini skirts and statement jackets. There were some colorful psychedelic tie-dye on relaxed pantsuits and co-ords. And then some more tie-dye bodycon maxi dresses. A vibrant lineup of beautifully constructed clothes. The designer was inspired by the desert and its mysteries; there was an airy nature-inspired essence in the clothes
Carolina Herrera: Loaded with florals and high on dreams this Herrera collection by Wes Gordon is just romance in one word. He was inspired by his childhood book ‘The Secret Garden’ this collection was as colorful as it could it. There was soft tailoring and sultry silhouettes; chiffon dresses, plunging strapless necklines, denim dresses, dramatic cotton gowns and dramatic LBDs. With some Lux daywear and dramatic gowns, this again is Wes Gordon’s mega triumph.
Priscavera: It’s a bit of Y2K, a bit of NYC street and a whole lot of sexy. There were printed sheer dresses, micro bra tops, mini skirts, low waisted pants and ultra-sexy mini bodycons. The highlight of the collection was a blue asymmetrical skirt with a one-sided thong detail; a look created to make a statement. The clothes were a lot less brazen this season but deeply seductive indeed. The balance between sexy and grown-up was struck perfectly here.
Kim Shui: The only thing this collection served was disappointment. It is quite a shame but this collection had nothing to care about. The textures were overdone, the styling was gaudy and the colors just didn’t complement each other. The silhouettes and cuts were unflattering and somewhat unnecessary. The irony is that for this collection the designer aimed this collection to be a reflection of a ‘Kim Shui Girl’. But the Kim Shui girl is definitely hotter and well-dressed than this!
LaQuan Smith: A powerful color palette, dangerously hot cuts and second-skin silhouettes; all you need for a classic LaQuan Smith collection. Each garment was tailored crisply with strategic cutout placements while carrying the signature sensual edge. Smith was inspired by wind, air and movement from this trip to Morocco and the colors were a reflection of Moroccon spice markets. There were sequined column dresses, micro mini skirts, micro bikini tops, vibrant sheer gowns, cargo pants and dangerously salacious bodysuits. The LaQuan Smith girl is getting hotter each season!
Brandon Maxwell: The fact that I have actually liked the recent Maxwell collections is something shocking to me. For this one, the designer focused on daywear. There was simplicity and maturity in the clothes. Nostalgia defined the silhouettes and pretty pastels added joy to the garments. There were sleek column dresses, asymmetrical skirts, sequined shorts, cargo trousers, tank tops and breezy blazers. It was nothing extravagant but that was the charm of it.
Gabriela Hearst: With each collection, Gabriela is becoming a season favorite. The beauty of her designs lies in their simplicity and earthiness of it. There were soft knitted dresses, Nappa leather tops, gold breastplates over jersey dresses, relaxed suiting, sweater dresses and multicolor crocheted co-ords. A lineup offering well-rounded contemporary and sensual wardrobe for the Hearst woman.
Peter Do: Peter Do has decided to rule NYFW and clearly it’s working. Monochrome and minimalism have never looked so good. We saw the signature sleek tailoring and unabashed sensuality. There were crisp shirts, tailored satin trousers, sheer tank tops, oversized silky trench coats, belted pleated skirts and dangerously hot platforms. This collection was also the designer’s foray into Menswear and in one word it was ‘Exquisite’. The beauty of Peter Do’s work lies in the details be it the ruffle-trimmed shirts or the delicately belted waists. Peter Do wins this season too.
Christian Cowan: This season Christian Cowan goes all out. Color was key this season, the designer called it a ‘fearless color mashup’. This collection radiated glamor and drama; most looks would add tons of personality to the wearer. Colorful feathered coats, bow-adorned miniskirts, sheer ruffled tops, mini bodycon dresses and halter neck gowns were some favorite items. What the collection lacks in neatness it makes up in unapologetic extravaganza.
Michael Kors: it is really difficult not to love a Michael Kors collection. Simple and sleek garments crafted with crisp tailoring luxurious fabrics and timeless glamour. a collection distant for indulgent vacations; offering clothes for all ages. Relaxed blazers, sarong skirts, flowy maxis, mini bra tops, and slinky jersey gowns were some highlights. A reliable glamour-loaded MK collection!
Tom Ford: Tom Ford was a lot to process this season. There was an overload of glam and glitter. There were sequined hotpants, satin trousers, metallic tracksuits and some delicious leather jackets. The collection was very 80s drama meets current comfort along with a whole lot of sex. Then came a series of black ultra-sexy lingerie looks – created with dainty lace and sheer overlays. The show closed with blindingly sequined bodycon gowns with matching sequined hoops.
The Row: Well-tailored clothes are the key to The Row’s charm. Shot in their natural environment – worn by women in the streets of Paris going about their life. Free-flowing lux fabrics tailored to give substantial structure to the clothes. While the clothes were a beacon of simplicity there was an overwhelming emotion that one feels viewing the garments. Possibly because of its timelessness and pristine luxury.
Coach: This collection simply aims to offer well-made clothes, Radical isn’t it? Stuart Vevers continues with the classic American motifs keeping the brand’s legacy alive. The designer said, “The collection celebrates pieces that become more beautiful the more they are worn and loved, and references to the past rediscovered in the present”. There were trench coats, babydoll dresses, oversized leather jackets, distressed knitwear and Tabby bags. Coach is trying to be relevant, time will tell if it’s working.
Christian Siriano: Apart from some atrocities, this was a decent Siriano collection. This is mainly because the designer focused more on simplicity than an unnecessary extravaganza. The colors were classic but some of the silhouettes were wildly dramatic. Couture-like elements were picked from different brands but they fit together surprisingly nicely in Siriano’s world. As the collection proceeded towards the closure with some big big tulle gowns, it also began losing its charm. A collection that displays the unmistakable potential of the designer, hopefully he will tap into it more.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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