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Kenneth Ize: A texture and color rich collection featured fringed dresses, relaxed suits, comfy sweater vests, laidback skirts and many standout pieces. A relatively more relaxed and calmer collection featured clothes that stand out; a remarkable suit in shades of blue in signature Ize stripes exemplified this perfectly. The comfortable silhouettes reflecting fluidity is just a cherry on top.
Heliot Emil: “It’s that melting point between industrial and elegance,” says the designer Julius Juul. Utilitarian almost authoritative clothes where the sensuality lies in the elevated cut and tailoring. Asymmetric cuts, leather belts, carabiners, strategic cutouts were the clear highlights of this collection. Shorts in the now signature metal liquid fabric were a standout; Heliot Emil simply makes me drool.
Christian Dior: This was MGC’s best Dior collection not to say it was great. Well, it did have some decent pieces inspired by Marc Bohan’s 1961 “Slim Look” and just the Swinging 60s; the collection featured a lot of miniskirts, cropped blazers, color-blocked coats, A-line dresses; Multiple details were reminiscent of Prada & Raf Simons. The collection did offer a brilliant range of tailored suits and jackets along with fringed minidresses, shift dresses and unfortunately some satin boxing robe looks(which for the sake of my mental health I’m going to ignore).
Ottolinger: The very sexy deconstructed garments in this collection were positively in sync with the sporty-sex focused trends paired with the brand aesthetics. Was it athleisure? was it lingerie? was it daywear? the brilliance lies in the ambivalent nature of the clothes that will undoubtedly do nothing be accentuate and compliment any body that wears them. Technically their previous collection have been more refined but this collection speaks to me. And yes it did seem to be inspired by the likes of Kim Shui, Knwls, Supriya Lele; though I do feel that’s part of the reason why I liked this collection. Influences and references can sometimes be productive and quite nice.
Thebe Magugu: Titled ‘Genealogy’ in this collection Thebe explores a touching and joyful subject: His family. The looks were showcased in front of huge photographs of this family; all the looks were inspired by the photo they were shown against. The brilliance of the reinterpreted look lies in the blend of cultural references with a rather modern appeal and the sheer simplicity of the clothes(simplicity not in craftsmanship and ideas but in the purpose). A collection with the essence of various real women, it was beautiful.
Courreges: A brand revival that seems to be going in the right direction. While this wasn’t the best Courrèges collection Nicolas Di Felice gave us some moments. “Everybody talks about him—the future, space age. But space age was a trend. He was a passionate guy; he just wanted to dress women.” Felice points a rather understated point here; the beauty of simplicity that isn’t usually associated with Courrèges. But we do see a hint of delightful simplicity here.
Dries Van Noten: 54 images radiating only color exuberance joy and love; shot by Rafael Pavarotti this collection was sheer visual elixir. Extravagant shapes created with vivid kaleidoscopic colors in an array of luxurious materials and textures. Multicolor layered fringe, intricate beading, trippy blurred prints, colorful watercolor prints, super smocked jackets, firework prints; everything that exudes pure joy. This collection was just another reminder of the brilliance of Dries Van Noten.
Patou: With almost a lionhearted approach Guillaume Henry’s work is rather intriguing: couture-like silhouettes and logo-laden basics find a balance that has the potential to put Patou on the map. Big romantic collars, soft tailoring, dreamy colors, comfortable shapes, playful prints (sourced from the archival work of French artist Christian Bérard and Gustave Moreau) this collection was just possibly a glimpse of some remarkable work.
Balmain: For his 10th-anniversary collection Olivier Rousteing played to his strengths; strengths that took him from a young 25-year-old black heavily criticized designer to the person that guided Balmain to become a powerhouse brand. Looks that were very structured yet sexy showcased luxurious craftsmanship: it included flowy bandage dresses, exaggerated gold accessories, regal chain-laden dresses among many standouts. The final 17 looks were a tribute to Olivier’s most iconic looks over the decade. This was beautiful and well deserved, here’s to another decade for Olivier.
Coperni: Presented around a maze of hemp the idea was to display a focus on sustainability (they are working on hemp-based fabrics with Limonta Group). Some highlights included strategic cutouts, psychedelic prints, tiny swimwear, chiffon minidresses, floral leggings and some try-hard ‘fresh’ take on blazers (well they weren’t all bad but just no). While this wasn’t Coperni’s best collection it was bearable.
Rick Owens: ‘Fogachine’ he called it, A quintessential Owens collection. Opened by his partner Michèle Lamy this collection was already off to a glorious start. Loads of leather, statement shoulders, spiderweb knits, structural skirts were the strong point in this collection along with some rather romantic looks in sunny colors (looks that were classic Rick Owens but also clothes you can dream in). Owen told WWD “I’ve got to make things that people can really appreciate, that are really pretty, really special and uniquely mine that supposedly no one else could come up with.”. A Black impeccably draped jersey gown with a sculptural neckline exemplifies this motive to perfection.
Chloe: In an era of constant greenwashing and faux claims, Under the direction of Gabriela Hearst Chloe got a B Corp Certification becoming the first luxury house to do so. While previously I did enjoy roasting Hearst’s Chloe, Undoublty this collection was beautiful. The clothes were earthy and grounded but didn’t lose the luxuriousness that one would expect. Favorites included Patchwork leather, seashell necklaces, multicolor fringe, delicate cashmere, soft trenches among many. The collection truly a breath of fresh air signifies that the Chole girl has now grown up.
Comme Des Garcons: Enormous silhouettes and bright colors were all the rage in this collection. The collection was inspired by her present state of mind had a list of things she feels we don’t need these days (intricate fabrics, complicated colors, patterns that clearly define the body, intention to make clothes and more). The looks were instantly reminiscent of classic CDG though she likened to ‘Like simple pebbles that you get after rough rocks have been washed over and swept down the river’. For any other label, this collection would be an exuberant wave of experimentation and boldness for CDG it was just something toned down, dare I say basic.
Rokh: Rok Hwang called this collection ‘White Rabbit’ Romantic colors and sharp tailoring explored a wide range of cutouts which were the highlight of this collection. Black gowns constructed with seductive cutouts showcased the brilliant tailoring paired with colorful gloves. A gorgeous pink strapless minidress with bright fuchsia gloves was the epitome of feminine luxury, so was an orange ruched dress. Utilitarian workwear transforms into sensual luxurious evening gowns. Rokh wins!
Isabel Marant: If you are looking to build the ultimate summer wardrobe this collection might be quite helpful. Sporty-beachy-sexy-sunny this collection almost had it all most importantly clothes one would actually wear. Primary Inspirations included the early 80s, Hans Feurer’s photography, 90s aesthetic, Japanese reference. Bikini tops, windbreakers, jumpsuits, printed sundresses, crochet tops were just some must-haves here.
Alexandre Vauthier: While Vauthier doesn’t really design casual everyday clothes he hopes his clothes might be essential to some clients. From Seductive ultra glamourous dresses to feathered jackets the mere 22 looks gave us quite a range. Suits with XL sharp shoulders – especially a very 80s ish pinstripe suit with a cinched waist that blesses us with simple yet artful tailoring. Super fancy glammed-up evening wear was of course quite hot. Just some Vauthier Classics!
Loewe: Well, Jonathan Anderson’s mind is fascinating, it is truly a godly experience for the eyes, brain and heart. Drenched in surrealism, irony, escapism, experimentation and as the brand called it “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical.” The collection was all that and much more. The collection had so many highlights it’s hard to keep track of; trench coats worn backward, dresses with sculptural shimmery metallic breastplates, denim dresses some reconstructed as backward dresses, sequined slit dresses with leg holes, dresses draped to perfection, Turtle-neck sheath maxis with clear resin breastplates. Sandals with rose, eggs, lipstick, birthday candle, soap were so full of whimsy and irony it was ridiculously wonderful; so were the bags.
Issey Miyake: Titled “A Voyage in Descent” this collection is inspired by a voyage into the deep sea. Sections of the collection where clothes represent different stages of the voyage are silence, carved, swimming, link rings, fluidity loop and swimming hue are thought-executed to perfection. Fluid and flowy garments come in the form of 3D knits sculpted around the body, rayon dresses with ‘naki’ (printing technique ), texture-rich cutout suits among many. The blend of traditional techniques with a modern design approach in a Miyake classic and was explored to perfection here.
Nina Ricci: Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter’s work at Nina Ricci is rather complicated; as in its quite good but its not Nina Ricci. Inspired by the ocean the collection was all shades of blues and greens and aims to influence a more younger audience of sustainability enthusiasts. The (sometimes forced) upbeat streetwear appeal that exudes through the clothes makes it difficult to experience the Couture-Heritage-Luxury Nina Ricci was known for.
Olivier Theyskens: This collection was made in about a year was a brilliant use of deadstock fabrics; Theyskens worked at the Paris studios reworking and transforming the fabrics into magnificent patchwork and beautiful fall shades. A collection that didn’t receive much deserved attention due to major social media platforms being down. The very seductive silhouettes implore one to delve deep into the intricacies of the clothes and textures. Clothes that very delicately balance the antifashion and the romantic-fantasy fashion aesthetics. In Theyskens’s words- A collection speaking of hidden memories, sentiments and intimate gestures.
Valentino: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s approach aims to woo Gen Z without compromising on the brand heritage and identity( the holes most brands are falling into). He tells WWD “But I don’t think you have to do streetwear to embrace a different world.”. An overall aura of comfortable silhouettes, vividly rich colors, fearless prints and a charming array of fabrics. While this collection was definitely modernized it didn’t miss to tribute some Garavani pieces. The immense Couture influences are clearly visible but toned down to everyday sensibilities. While this wasn’t Piccioli’s best it’s a step towards something lasting.
Zuhair Murad: Inspired by the 70s this collection featured some ultra-glam daywear including lace safari suits, flared pants, lace midis, high-waisted relaxed shorts, minidresses with plunging necks. The eveningwear very detailed and neatly constructed was no doubt heavenly; his clientele would be quite pleased. Silhouettes for everyone, colors for everyone we saw a lot of refined ruffles, delicate lace, intricate embroidery and a whole lot of fantasy.
Elie Saab: Titled ‘Splendor in the Sun’ the collection featured a string focus on Daywear; comfortable midi dresses, carefree summery colors, lively prints (including a Logo print), jumpsuits and an overall air of casual comfortable clothes. Extravagant eveningwear has been Saab’s strong suit so his daywear does feel a little forced not just in thought but in the actual outcome (clothes) as well. But it is a smart move to focus on a younger demographic and RTW in general
Balenciaga: Once again we see Demna’s creativity and astute understanding of almost everything – fashion, culture, media, celebrity the list is endless. We got a special Balenciaga x The Simpsons episode along with the collection and let me tell you it was all sorts of amazing(Springfield flies to Paris for the Balenciaga fashion show!). The collection was presented in a Hollywood style red carpet format featuring Streetwear, Daywear, Eveningwear and a hint of Couture this collection seemed like an ode to Demna’s Balenciaga classics.
Lanvin: The collection started with some dreamy pastel pleated minidresses. It had some nice pieces but the lack of Lanvin aesthetic was painful. Bruno Sialelli’s Lanvin seems to have taken a wrong turn this season. The styling was at times quite messy and almost tacky. There was something off this season, a desperate attempt to attract a younger audience or get on that Y2k trend probably. Lanvin partnered with DC Comics to create unfortunate pieces and a few bags were made in collaboration with Judith Leiber.
Givenchy: Yes, the collection wasn’t that bad itself but was it Givenchy? No. With an aim to extravagance and discipline, tradition and today, classicism and subversion this collection only resulted in a big heap of disappointment. Even with strong tones of utility, construction, experimentation, extravagance this collection was not Matthew Williams best. There were neoprene corset dresses that looked very heavy though could have been really nice if were toned down. The looks created with Josh Smith’s collaboration were bearable at best along with sweatshirts, knit dresses, high boots, utility vests and more.
Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli goes on vacation! Daniel Roseberry explores the two Elsas in this collection; City Elsa and Seaside Elsa. The collection featured exaggerated surrealist jewelry, colorful stipes, umbrella hats, swimwear with flowers over the breasts, intricate embellishments, peek-a-boo hats, leather-trimmed skirt suits, luxurious bathrobes and more. The blend of fantastical surreal motifs with holiday basics come together seamlessly here, Couture like techniques and aesthetics surely are persistent here.
Giambattista Valli: Romantic colors, floral prints, feathers, ruffles, sensual low necklines, flowy skirts and a wide range of co-ords; Valli loves some romantic glam and this collection was a quite nice example of that. Even with multiple traditional concepts at work, there was a lively youthful energy here. He told WWD “Don’t be scared of beauty,” and he wasn’t!
Stella McCartney: Inspired by Netflix’s Fantastic Fungi documentary this collection fungi’s transformative and transcendental qualities. Relaxed sporty silhouettes, trippy prints, tailored suits, strategic cutouts were some of the highlights here. The best part of the collection was the designer’s final bow cause that was the best look I saw.
Chanel: In a possible attempt to capitalize on the 90s trend, Chanel recreated one of those typical 90s runway show. Well, the show was good but the clothes-not so much. Black and white swimsuits, colorful Chanel suits, black chiffon butterfly printed looks, blazer dresses among many. Focusing on photographers Virginie says “Fashion is about clothes, models, and photographers,”. With all my heart I’m trying to come around to Virginie’s Chanel and I have noticed a shift in my judgments of her previous work. But this collection did not help.
Miu Miu: The collection ‘Basic Instincts’ brought back micro mini skirts all thanks to Miuccia Prada. Might I say it’s the best Y2K-inspired collection yet, brazen yet subtle. The boring old work uniform has gone through a bold seductive revamp, Mrs. Prada said “Rather than trying to invent anew, we wanted to celebrate and elevate these universal archetypes of dress,”. The raw edges, bare abs, belt, ultra-low waits, muted colors, seductive silhouettes all come to get to present an authoritative sensual woman. A few embellished-embroidered looks in pretty pastels gave us fitting looks for a chic night out!
Louis Vuitton: At first sight, this collection might seem a little messy almost too much; but upon further inspection, it was rather lovely. Big hoop skirts, oversized blazers, satin peep-toe sneakers, lace details, intricate beading, extravagant glasses among some major hits. Exorbitant silhouettes and luxurious varied textures with modern street elements were reflected a blend of fantasy and today was on point here: the best of Nicolas Ghesquière.
AZ Factory: Beautiful, Touching and Glorious; The only way to describe the tribute to Alber Elbaz by his brainchild AZ Factory. Titled “Love Brings Love” and held at The Carreau du Temple in Paris, 45 designers came together to honor the work and life of the beloved designer and his striking influence on fashion. A collaborative effort that brought in fashion and creativity; we saw a rare moment of true harmony and admiration in the fashion industry.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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