All about New York Fashion Week Fall 2021

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by Shreya S

Batsheva: There is an emphasis on the freedom of being alone and our ‘home selves’. Continuing with the cooking aesthetic this collection was called ‘The Domestic Adventure’. Familiar femininity with a weight on comfort and commerciality was the round-up in this collection. A rather safe collection this season but I suppose a viable move to sustain the brand.

Prabal Gurung: Old school glamour was the theme in this collection, far from the more toned-down aesthetic presented by many due to the pandemic. Polka dots, rich reds, and dramatic pinks were dominant in this collection. Favorites were some trumpet-flared pants and a massively ruffled white top paired with a black fishtail skirt. Full of glamour and luxe featuring some neat tailoring and a youthful take of classic silhouettes this collection is one for dreamers.

Jason Wu: Tied together with a few delightful pieces in classic colors and quirky prints paired with breezy silhouettes. The highlights were the overcoats, cozy knits, and comfy pants. The Coca-Cola print was very 80s and complemented the Mr. Wu General Store quite well. All in All, a satisfactory collection for his customers but a limited one in thought.

PH5: One of the younger brands in NYFW, PH5 scored this season. Playing around with the concepts of structure and asymmetry and along with their goal to explore knitwear, PH5 landed on the perfect 5 out of 14 (1 being ultra-feminine and 7 being androgynous). Snappy cuts, forward prints, and flirty color blocking gave a freeing vision of the future of fashion. The collection seemed like a representation of a glitchy Windows 98. A more subdued e-girl perhaps.

Anna Sui: This collection can be defined as a children’s book made for fashion-adults. It was all about the 60s and funk here. Started off with a lot of cow-print which is kind of late to the trend but nevertheless, it was alright. A very psychedelic color palette directs us towards a sense of somber fantasy. This collection caters to a wide demographics with sheer dresses, tights, tea dresses, and trippy prints.

Collina Strada: One of the most fascinating digital presentations, I was obsessed! While the awkward transitions of models to animals were wonderful enough to keep us distracted from the clothes, it certainly would be a mistake to do so. Clever layering of sustainably conscious pieces is a concept we stan. Loved the retro floral pants, silly prints, the bodysuit-esque gowns, and the general thrifty energy.

Naeem Khan: The glam factor is amped up significantly with Khan’s collection, made for women who appreciate dressing up in all its enchantment. Featuring some beautiful, dazzling, and mildly impractical looks, this collection makes one long for Gatsby-ish nights. Notable looks were a sequined blue cocktail dress and the final two heavily fringed silver beauties.

Kim Shui: Even with daring cutouts, graphic prints, and a powerful sex appeal, It hurts to say this but this wasn’t the best. The velvet and the graphic printed tie-dye looks were a little overdone. Some satin pieces were quite nice especially a blue satin with ruching in the center. Overall it was alright but I think it was a little underwhelming and limiting for Kim Shui.

Carolina Herrera: This collection was a celebration of Herrera’s 40th anniversary and shot all over new york. Solid emphasis on the heart shapes, ruffled shirts, polka dots, and shimmery Sequined looks. Herrera had some cutesy pieces including a pink strapless dress with colorful hearts splattered all over. Though there was a rather hideous red-white giraffe print. A Sequined pink dress with fantastic Duffy sleeves was a birthday girl’s dream and for a lady, it was a black silk strapless gown with baby pink tulle peeping below. I heart it.

Proenza Schouler: Even though overshadowed by Ella Emhoff Schouler was quite a treat this season. Soft tailoring throughout on blazers and suits was delightful but it was the boldly center slit two-toned skirts that stood out. The knitwear was another strong point in this collection, exemplified by a brown sweater gown. Overall a quite splendid collection by Schouler.

Gabriela Hearst: A neutral color palette is showcased within some luxurious textures. The show progressed from formal and rigid silhouettes to deeply delicate ones. A beige knitted sweater-skirt with colorful hand-sewn flowers was absolutely divine and so was the black dress with a sheer knitted top and a leather skirt cinched by a gorgeous lace paneling. Marvelous knitwear, light leather, and a consistent focus on sustainability this collection is a stunner.

Christian Cowan: This just might be my favorite Cowan collection. Cowan said he wanted to “bring the 2000s to 2021.” and I’m here for everything and anything 00s and this was probably one of the smartest representations of the same(there were a few 80s and 90s elements too). It was all sparkly flip phones, Paris Hilton, minidresses and just casually-glamorously lying on beds. My favorite look? a purple heavily sequined nightsuit. So retro, so glam, so fabulous. A fashion thing it is.

Zimmermann: Zimmermann was the happiest show this season, so cheerful, so delightful. Featuring some classic Zimmermann looks aka floral flowy and fun dresses. Breezily cut suits in pastels and bright checks were a standout in this collection. An all denim look was clean and a must-have. The best part of the collection; the models laughing and smiling as they walked down the runway.

Ulla Johnson: Ulla Johnson said Watch me. A surprising treat this season; one of the first to kick off the fashion week she did us proud. Romantic bohemian prints, rich textures, big totes, and breezy dresses ruled this collection. The standout look was a white intricately chunky knitted sweater dress – yes it shall be on my moodboards and wishlists forever.

The Row: All most of the looks were monochrome, delicately tailored, and luxuriously styled. It was all oversized and comfortable and dripping with opulence. It was a very typical Row collection and we are here for it

Oscar De La Renta: The only looks that matter in this collection: a 3D floral embroidered minidress and a vivid floral printed dress. Florals were exemplified beautifully and I ended up discovering my rather subconscious love for them. The rest of the collection seemed to be poorly made, almost unfinished.

Laquan Smith: This collection was painfully hot. With some unapologetically hot bodysuits, brilliant use of his signature PVC material, some surprisingly neat tailoring moments, and a bit of velvet magic. A piece that stood out was a teak dress with a front-halter neckline; it showcases his work with fabric, color, cut, and gives us a dress that exudes raw sex.

Ashish: Such a fun happy colorful and enthusiastic collection; Living for it. The explosion of color, glitter, funky textures, sequined tie-dye, comfortable silhouettes, jazzy wigs resulted in some Ashish classics. Fluffy tiered tulle dresses were a right out of a fairly late and we saw fun sequin splattered jeans. Such glamorous unreal clothes sure make a girl dream and I am all for dreaming.

Ralph Lauren: With a more casual approach this time, Ralph Lauren was a bit underwhelming. Though we did see some clean tailoring moments and Ralph Lauren classic colors this collection is made for the generational rich. Floral printed dresses were cute and a gorgeous white sculpted strapless dress was a necessity. Minimal breezy and classic American defines this collection to the core.