Why most of luxury dropped fur, why leather is more complicated, and what “vegan leather” really means.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 15 November 2026
Which brands have gone fur-free?
Gucci announced it would stop using fur in 2017, and Versace, Chanel, Prada and many others followed. By 2022 every Kering house had stopped. London Fashion Week has been fur-free since 2018. Some governments acted too: the UK banned fur farming in 2000, and California banned the sale of new fur products from 2023.
Is leather sustainable?
It is debated. Most leather is a by-product of the meat industry, and a good leather bag can last decades. But cattle farming is linked to deforestation and emissions, and most leather is tanned with chromium salts, which pollute when waste is not treated. Vegetable-tanned leather and certification from the Leather Working Group are signs of a more responsible supply chain.
What about exotic skins?
Crocodile, alligator, python and ostrich remain part of top-end luxury, especially at Hermès, and are regulated under the CITES treaty on trade in endangered species. Chanel stopped using exotic skins in 2018, and several other brands have followed, citing animal welfare and the difficulty of guaranteeing ethical sourcing.
What is vegan leather made of?
Usually plastic: polyurethane (PU) or PVC, which are oil-based and less durable than leather. Newer materials use plants, such as pineapple leaf (Piñatex), cactus, apple waste or mushroom mycelium, but most still need a plastic coating to perform, and several start-ups have struggled to scale. “Vegan” means no animals, not automatically better for the planet. See leather, explained.
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