The words on a luxury bag’s label, decoded.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 15 November 2026
What do full-grain, top-grain and genuine mean?
Full-grain keeps the hide’s whole top layer, with its natural texture; it is the strongest and ages into a patina. Top-grain has been lightly sanded to remove marks, so it is smoother but slightly less durable. “Genuine leather” sounds reassuring but usually means a lower-quality split from the inner layers, and bonded leather is made from scraps glued together.
Which skins are used?
Calfskin is fine-grained and versatile, the standard for luxury bags and shoes. Lambskin is the softest and most delicate, used for Chanel’s quilted flap bags. Goatskin is light and tough. Exotic skins such as crocodile and python are the most expensive and are tightly regulated.
What are Saffiano, Togo and Epsom?
House finishes. Saffiano, Prada’s signature, is calfskin pressed with a cross-hatch pattern and waxed, making it scratch-resistant. Hermès’s Togo is a soft calf with a natural pebbled grain, while Epsom is embossed to be rigid and light. Box calf is smooth and glossy, patent has a high-shine coating, nappa is very soft and supple, and suede and nubuck are brushed to a velvety nap. Bottega Veneta’s intrecciato is not a finish but a technique of weaving leather strips by hand.
How should I care for leather?
Store bags stuffed with tissue in their dust bags, away from sunlight and damp, and never in plastic. Wipe with a soft dry cloth, condition smooth leather occasionally, and protect suede with a spray before wearing. Most leather is tanned with chromium; vegetable-tanned leather is firmer and darkens beautifully with age.
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