Who decides when a fashion house hires a new creative director, what they look for and how a new era begins.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 1 November 2026
On this page: The decision · The handover · The Ayerhs view
The decision
Who chooses a fashion house’s creative director?
The owners and top executives. At a group house, the decision is usually made by the brand’s chief executive with the group’s leadership, such as Bernard Arnault at LVMH. At family-owned houses such as Chanel, the owners have the final word. Search firms and fashion insiders often help draw up a shortlist.
What do houses look for in a new designer?
- A clear creative vision that fits, or usefully challenges, the house’s codes
- A track record of commercial success, especially in accessories
- The ability to lead a large studio and work with management
- Cultural relevance and a following
Where do new creative directors come from?
Often from another house in the same group, such as Jonathan Anderson moving from Loewe to Dior within LVMH, or Demna from Balenciaga to Gucci within Kering. Others are promoted from inside the studio, as Julian Klausner was at Dries Van Noten, or come from their own labels, as Duran Lantink did at Jean Paul Gaultier.
The handover
How long does a new designer take to debut?
Usually six months to a year. Designers may have to serve out a notice period at their old house, and collections are designed months ahead. In between, the studio team often presents a collection without a named designer.
Why do creative directors leave?
Falling sales, creative disagreements, the end of a contract, a better offer, or burnout. Tenures have grown shorter: where Karl Lagerfeld spent 36 years at Chanel, some recent designers have lasted only a few seasons.
Read on Ayerhs: Who designs what in 2026 · What is a fashion house?
The Ayerhs view
Are houses changing designers too often?
Yes. A house’s identity is built over years, not seasons. The most successful eras, from Lagerfeld at Chanel to Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, were given time.
Read on Ayerhs: The Unfair Scrutiny: Why Young Designers at Heritage Houses Deserve More Grace
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