How runway models are cast, who the supermodels were and how modelling has changed.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 1 November 2026
How are runway models cast?
A casting director works with the designer to define the look of the show, then meets models sent by agencies at “go-sees” in the weeks before fashion month. Models may be booked exclusively for one brand’s show to make the debut more powerful.
Who were the original supermodels?
The models who became global stars in the late 1980s and 1990s: Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and Claudia Schiffer, joined by Kate Moss. Gianni Versace made them central to his shows, sending them out together in his Fall 1991 finale as they lip-synced to George Michael’s “Freedom! ’90”.
Read on Ayerhs: Versace · A–Z of Donatella Versace · Top 100 90s Fashion Moments
How did Instagram change modelling?
From the mid-2010s, models with huge social followings, such as Gigi and Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner, became the new supermodels, bringing their audiences to the brands that booked them. Casting has also become more diverse in size, age, gender and ethnicity.
Are there rules to protect models’ health?
Yes. Since 2017, French law has required models to hold a medical certificate confirming they are healthy, and LVMH and Kering signed a charter the same year banning the smallest sample sizes and models under 16 from their shows.
Read on Ayerhs: How the Fashion Industry Is Tackling Diversity and Inclusion