Designers

Ralph Lauren Collections: The Defining Shows of American Fashion’s Great Storyteller

From a box of neckties to The Great Gatsby, Annie Hall and Central Park: Ralph Lauren's defining moments, a timeline of the brand, and every Ralph Lauren show we've reviewed.

Ralph Lauren Collections: The Defining Shows of American Fashion’s Great Storyteller

Ralph Lauren (born 1939, the Bronx, New York) never studied fashion. He sold wide neckties under the name Polo in 1967 and built from them the most complete lifestyle brand in American fashion: the polo shirt, the tweed jacket, the cable-knit sweater, the cowboy boot and the safari dress, all wrapped in a story of country houses, ranches and old Hollywood. He dressed Robert Redford for The Great Gatsby, influenced Diane Keaton’s Annie Hall look, and has outfitted the US Olympic team since 2008. His runway shows in New York are less about trends than about a world you want to live in. This guide covers his defining moments and links to every Ralph Lauren show we have reviewed.

Ralph Lauren at a glance

BornRalph Lifshitz, 14 October 1939, the Bronx, New York
TrainedNo formal fashion training; worked as a tie salesman
Founded1967, as Polo, selling neckties
WomenswearFrom 1971
ShowsNew York Fashion Week
LinesRalph Lauren Collection, Purple Label, Polo Ralph Lauren, RRL, Lauren
SignaturesThe polo player logo, Americana, preppy tailoring, Western and ranch wear, safari, black-tie glamour

Timeline: Ralph Lauren

YearWhat happened
1967Designs wide ties under the name Polo
1968Launches a full menswear line
1971First womenswear, a tailored shirt with the polo player logo on the cuff
1972The mesh polo shirt, in 24 colours
1974Dresses the men of The Great Gatsby
1977Annie Hall makes his menswear-for-women look famous
1993–94Launches RRL and Purple Label
2008Becomes the official outfitter of the US Olympic team
201850th-anniversary show in Central Park (the Spring 2019 collection)
2026Still showing every season in New York

Every Ralph Lauren collection we have reviewed

SeasonOur takeAyerhs review
Fall 2005Steely SophisticationRead
Fall 2006Haute HuntressRead
Fall 2008Country ChicRead
Spring 2013Latin LaurenRead
Spring 201460s Meets SchoolgirlRead
Spring 2015Jungle & JewelsRead
Fall 2015Rich AmericanaRead
Spring 2016Made for MaritimeRead
Spring 2019Croissants in New York (the 50th anniversary)Read
Spring 2024Rustic RendezvousRead
Spring 2025Show reportRead
Spring 2026Classic Americana fantasyRead
Fall 2026A moody country-estate texture-maniaRead

The 5 moments that defined Ralph Lauren

1. The polo shirt, 1972

  • What happened: A cotton mesh shirt with the polo player logo, launched in 24 colours.
  • Why it mattered: It became one of the best-selling garments in history and the foundation of the brand. See The Polo Shirt.

2. The Great Gatsby, 1974

  • What happened: Lauren’s pale linen suits and pink suit dressed Robert Redford’s Gatsby.
  • Why it mattered: It fixed his image of old-money glamour in the public mind.

3. Annie Hall, 1977

  • What happened: Diane Keaton’s ties, waistcoats and wide trousers, partly from Lauren’s menswear.
  • Why it mattered: It made borrowed-from-the-boys dressing a mainstream look for women.

4. Spring 2019: 50 years in Central Park

  • What happened: A celebration at Bethesda Terrace in Central Park with every line on the runway and a star-studded dinner after.
  • Why it mattered: A survey of half a century of American style. Read our review.

5. Fall 2015: rich Americana

  • What happened: Patchwork, suede, fringing and Western detail cut with evening polish.
  • Why it mattered: The ranch-meets-ballroom formula at its best. Read our review.

How to spot a Ralph Lauren: signature codes

SignatureWhat to look for
Polo playerThe embroidered horse-and-rider logo
PreppyOxford shirts, cable knits, blazers, rugby stripes
WesternDenim, suede, concho belts and cowboy boots, especially at RRL
Country houseTweed, tartan, riding boots and hunting jackets
Black tieTuxedos for women and sleek column gowns
StorytellingEvery collection set in a world: a ranch, a safari, a Hamptons garden

Keep reading on Ayerhs

Ralph Lauren: FAQ

How did Ralph Lauren start?

Selling wide neckties under the name Polo in 1967, before expanding into menswear in 1968 and womenswear in 1971.

Did Ralph Lauren design The Great Gatsby costumes?

He designed the men’s suits for the 1974 film; the overall costume design was credited to Theoni V. Aldredge.

Where does Ralph Lauren show?

In New York, during New York Fashion Week, often in his own spaces or landmark venues.

What is Ralph Lauren Purple Label?

The brand’s top men’s line, launched in the 1990s, focused on fine tailoring.

Sources: Ralph Lauren Corporation; Metropolitan Museum of Art; Ayerhs archive reviews.

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