All black, from head to toe. Flared leather trousers stacked over huge boots. A distressed, cropped jacket, layered silver jewellery, a mask or a balaclava, maybe a Vivienne Westwood pearl necklace. This is the opium aesthetic, the dark, punk-tinged style of rapper Playboi Carti and his record label Opium, which has become one of the most influential subcultures in young menswear.
What is the opium aesthetic?
Opium is a fashion subculture built around the artists of the Opium label and the “rage” rap sound they helped popularise. The look mixes punk, goth, grunge, rock-star glamour and avant-garde designer fashion. It is dark, dramatic and layered: black leather and denim, flared or stacked trousers, heavy boots, oversized or cropped jackets, graphic tees with occult or heavy-metal fonts, chains and rings. It is both expensive (designer pieces are central) and DIY (distressing, customising and thrifting are part of the culture).
Where it came from
Playboi Carti, already known for experimental fashion, founded the Opium label in 2019, signing artists including Ken Carson, Destroy Lonely and Homixide Gang. His December 2020 album Whole Lotta Red introduced a “vampire” persona and a punk-inspired visual world of black leather, spiked hair and gothic imagery. The album’s chaotic, distorted sound divided listeners at first, but it became hugely influential, and so did the style around it.
Through concerts, music videos and fan accounts, the look spread across TikTok, Instagram and Pinterest, where “opium fits” became a recognised genre. Young fans began hunting for Rick Owens boots, Chrome Hearts jewellery and vintage band tees, and the aesthetic fed into a wider dark, punk revival in menswear.
The codes
- Clothes: black leather jackets and trousers, flared and stacked jeans, cropped or boxy tops, mesh, distressed knits, graphic and band tees, long coats.
- Shoes: chunky platform boots and high-top trainers, especially Rick Owens styles, and combat boots.
- Accessories: layered silver chains and rings, Chrome Hearts, Vivienne Westwood orbs and pearls, masks and balaclavas, studded belts.
- Colours: black, black and more black, with occasional red.
- Labels most associated with it: Rick Owens, Balenciaga, Chrome Hearts, Vivienne Westwood, Raf Simons, Undercover and many smaller underground labels.
See the mood
IMAGES: PINTEREST. TAP ANY IMAGE TO SEE IT ON PINTEREST AND ITS ORIGINAL SOURCE.
The references
Music: Playboi Carti’s Whole Lotta Red and his later albums, Ken Carson and Destroy Lonely; and older punk, goth and metal acts whose imagery the scene borrows.
Fashion: Rick Owens’s dark, monumental silhouettes; Vivienne Westwood’s punk roots; Raf Simons’s youth-culture collections; Balenciaga under Demna.
Why it caught on
Opium gives young men a way to be dramatic and expressive in their clothes, something mainstream menswear rarely allows. It combines rap culture with punk rebellion and high fashion, and it has the energy of a real scene, tied to music, concerts and community rather than just a hashtag. Its all-black palette also makes it surprisingly easy to build from what you already have.
The debate
Critics point to the cost of the designer pieces at the heart of the look, which pushes young fans towards expensive resale markets and counterfeits. The scene’s dark and sometimes occult imagery has also caused controversy, though fans often see it as theatre in the tradition of rock and metal. And as with every subculture that goes viral, some long-time fans resent “opium fits” becoming a costume.
Where it is now
The opium aesthetic remains one of the strongest youth subcultures in menswear, closely tied to the continuing success of the label’s artists. Its influence shows in the broader return of punk, goth and dark rock-star dressing across fashion.
Related aesthetics
Indie Sleaze · Y2K · Dark Academia · Gorpcore
Learn more: hear from more voices
A thorough explanation of the opium aesthetic, and a quick guide to the designer brands behind it.
Sources: music and fashion coverage of Playboi Carti, the Opium label and Whole Lotta Red (2020–2025). Videos are embedded from YouTube and remain the work of their creators.
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