Louis Vuitton Perfects the Art of Fantastical Ugly Chic | Louis Vuittton Fall 2026 – London Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

At this point, Louis Vuitton might have fully mastered the art of ugly chic. The funny part is that the clothes are not even that ugly. Some of them are actually… good. It is the kind of fashion that feels slightly chaotic, a little strange, and somehow still very appealing. Almost like a guilty pleasure you cannot quite explain.

This time, Nicolas Ghesquière built the collection around what he called “an anthropology of fashion.” The idea was to look at clothing worn by mountain communities across the world and reinterpret it through his very specific, very avant garde lens. The show itself reflected that fantasy. Set inside a mossy, geometric “neo landscape” at the Louvre, designed by Severance production designer Jeremy Hindle, the runway felt like a surreal alpine dream.

The clothes leaned heavily into protection, texture, and structure. Shaggy wool capes, shearling hats that curved like paper boats, and stiff outerwear with exaggerated shoulders created silhouettes that felt both primitive and futuristic. Some pieces echoed traditional shepherd garments like the Turkish kepenek, but they were rendered in brushed animal hair or leather trimmed wool, making them unmistakably Vuitton.

There was a lot happening visually. Patchwork rompers, plaid wool mini skirts, cropped leather jackets, satin overalls with cowl necks, and tuxedo trousers lined with fluffy strips instead of satin. Textures were everywhere. Hairy fabrics, felt, shearling, and quilted leather all layered together. Even the details leaned playful, with naive illustrations of sheep and forest animals appearing across garments.

It is the kind of collection that divides people instantly. You either love it or you absolutely hate it. But that tension is also part of what makes Ghesquière interesting. He feels like a designer who refuses to stay in one lane, someone constantly experimenting, sometimes messy, sometimes brilliant.

And honestly, that freedom shows. At a house like Louis Vuitton, where the bags will sell regardless, Ghesquière seems able to explore whatever strange, fantastical idea is on his mind. The result is fashion that might not always land perfectly, but at least it has a voice. It is expressive, imaginative, and completely its own thing. Which, in today’s landscape, feels pretty refreshing.