Lantink’s Jean Paul Gaultier Moves Beyond Shock Value | Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2026 – Paris Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

Second time’s the charm might actually apply here. It is hard not to look at this show through the lens of the debut. That collection felt almost too absurd, like it was built for shock value. It makes you wonder whether that first moment was intentional ragebait, or if there was some pressure behind the scenes pushing Lantink to prove he was not just a one trick provocateur. Either way, this time things felt more grounded.

The starting point was Marlene Dietrich and her famous play with masculine and feminine codes. Lantink translated that idea into what he called “Madame Masculinity,” leaning heavily into tailoring while still twisting it in unexpected ways. Suits came deconstructed, coats were pinched at the waist, and classic menswear fabrics were shifted into skirts, corsetry, and hybrid pieces. It was playful but more controlled.

The tailoring was easily the highlight. This is where the collection really came alive. Structured coats, reworked pinstripe suits, and layered jackets showed that the Gaultier atelier still has incredible technical strength. Lantink also brought back some of his signature sculptural shapes, especially in the shoulders and padding, but this time they felt purposeful rather than chaotic.

The show also moved through a mix of characters. Cowboys, detectives, ravers, and femme fatales appeared one after another, creating a kind of wardrobe of personalities rather than a strict storyline. Western hats, lingerie references, sportswear elements, and archival Gaultier nods all blended together.

And yes, there were a lot of ideas. Maybe even too many. But unlike last season, the craftsmanship held everything together. Two padded and pleated gowns stood out near the end, proving that when Lantink focuses, he can deliver real fashion moments.

So was the strategy intentional all along? Maybe. The bar was definitely low after the debut. But this collection had enough strong moments to remind everyone that Lantink might actually belong here.