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Titled Midnight in Manhattan, felt like a surprising shift in attitude for the designer. Saab is usually associated with classic glamour and red carpet romance, but this season had a sharper edge. The inspiration came from 1990s New York, particularly the contrast between uptown elegance and downtown attitude. That tension shaped the entire collection. From the first look, a cherry red leather bustier dress emerging through a misty runway, the tone was clear. This was Saab stepping into a cooler, more modern space.
The silhouettes were very crisp and controlled. Pencil skirts, tailored trousers, and sculpted jackets gave the collection a clean structure. Many looks felt quietly powerful, almost reminiscent of the sleek sensuality associated with designers like Tom Ford or the bold glamour of Versace in the 90s. It was a direction that felt new for Saab, and honestly, pretty refreshing.
There was still plenty of the house’s signature craftsmanship. The detailing throughout the collection was impeccable. Floral embroideries, beading, and hand painted blooms on glossy leather added depth without overwhelming the clothes. One standout moment was a tuxedo coat lined with sequins worn over an all black look, subtle but striking. Another was an oxblood velvet bustier and pencil skirt designed to resemble denim, which showed Saab playing cleverly with texture.
What made the collection interesting was how it balanced edge with elegance. Velvet puffers and fine knits introduced a more everyday feeling, while sheer gowns, lace dresses, and shimmering naked dresses brought back the evening drama Saab is known for.
The styling helped reinforce the mood. Smoky eyes, sleek hair, and sharp stiletto heels gave the models a uniform that felt confident and a little rebellious. The collection felt very cool. That might not be the first word people usually associate with Elie Saab, but this season, it worked.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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