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Pierpaolo Piccioli’s second collection for Balenciaga arrived with a lot of expectation. His debut for the house felt confident and promising, so naturally there was curiosity about what his next move would be. But this time, the result felt strangely confusing. Somehow the collection felt like too much and nothing at the same time.
Titled ClairObscur, this show explored the Renaissance idea of light and shadow. Piccioli used this concept to frame the clothes almost like portraits. Dramatic collars, funnel necks, and sculptural hoods surrounded the models’ faces, turning the upper body into the focal point. Many of the looks were built around strong outerwear. Cocoon coats, balloon-shaped leather bombers, and structured officer coats referenced the house codes established by Cristóbal Balenciaga decades ago.
The show itself leaned heavily into atmosphere. Piccioli collaborated with Sam Levinson, who filled the dark runway space with video screens showing scenes and faces from the upcoming season of Euphoria. The idea was clearly about capturing a portrait of a generation, but the connection between the cinematic world and the clothes never fully landed.
The draped silk jersey dresses were beautifully constructed and moved with an effortless elegance. Some sequined evening gowns near the end reminded everyone of Piccioli’s talent for red carpet moments. Accessories also had strong moments, especially the softer versions of the Hourglass bag and the slightly distorted brogues created with J.M. Weston.
Still, the collection struggled to feel cohesive. One minute it leaned into Balenciaga’s darker, youth-driven aesthetic, the next it returned to Piccioli’s softer couture instincts. The push between past and present felt unresolved. The clothes themselves might be objectively good, even well made. But as a full collection, the vision never quite came together. That is what made the show feel surprisingly underwhelming. After such a strong debut, this one just left more questions than answers.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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