Simone Bellotti Adds Subtle Distortion to Jil Sander’s Minimalism | Jil Sander Fall 2026 – Milan Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

Simone Bellotti’s for Jil Sander felt like a continuation of the conversation he started last season. After a debut focused on reduction and sharp precision, this time he explored the opposite idea. What happens when something extra, something decorative, becomes essential?

The collection still carried the house’s signature minimalism, but it came with small disruptions. Tailoring remained the backbone. Long blazers, structured coats, and clean skirts kept the silhouettes sharp and controlled. But Bellotti introduced subtle distortions. Collars slipped slightly out of place. Shoulders looked detached from the body. Some jackets curved around the torso in what he called “banana” shapes, softly embracing the figure rather than sitting rigidly on it.

There was also a quiet sense of provocation. Skirts opened with curved cuts that revealed flashes of white stocking underneath. Coats had high slits at the back. Pants carried delicate ruffles along the sides. Many of these details appeared unexpectedly at the back of garments, making the clothes feel intriguing from every angle.

The inspiration came from Swedish photographer Anders Petersen’s images of Café Lehmitz, a gritty Hamburg bar from the late 1960s. Bellotti translated that sense of intimacy and imperfection into clothing that looked slightly undone or in motion. It was still very precise, but almost intentionally awkward. Accessories played a strong role too. Pre-worn suede boots and sculptural pumps added a rougher edge to the otherwise refined wardrobe.

Overall, the collection was clean, chic, and quietly cool. At the same time, it didn’t leave a very strong impression. Compared to other shows this season, it felt a bit forgettable. Still, considering this is only Bellotti’s second collection at the house, it seems fair to give the vision time to settle. The ideas are clearly there, even if the impact hasn’t fully landed yet.