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The collection marked Erdem Moralioglu’s 20th anniversary, though he made it clear he wasn’t interested in doing a straightforward retrospective. Instead, he described the collection as a “mashup” of the many women, eras, and references that have shaped his work over the years. The result was a kind of imaginary conversation between historical figures who have inspired him, from Radclyffe Hall to Maria Callas, all filtered through Erdem’s signature romantic lens.
That idea of a mashup was visible everywhere on the runway. Brocades collided with lace, ribbons with feathers, and crystal embellishments with frayed patchworked textiles. It could have easily felt chaotic, but somehow it didn’t. There was a melody to it all, a rhythm that made the mix of references feel intentional and very Erdem.
The textures were especially striking. Rich satins, delicate lace, quilting, and dense embroidery gave the clothes depth and weight. Color played a big role too. The palette moved widely, from soft creams and lemon yellows to deep florals and unexpected tones like watermelon pink lace.
Silhouettes leaned dramatic and vintage in spirit. Panniered skirts, crinolines, and sweeping coats created strong shapes that felt almost theatrical. At the same time, there were lighter moments that broke up the grandeur, like bra tops paired with relaxed jeans or sharp mannish blazers slipping off the shoulder. That contrast kept the collection feeling cool rather than costume-like. Even at its most ornate, there was a looseness and ease to it.
After two decades, Erdem still knows exactly how to create clothes that feel romantic, expressive, and emotionally rich.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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