Courrèges experiments with the harshness of sun and heat | Courrèges Spring 2026 – Paris Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

Courrèges is trying to be the cool kid. The ‘Blinded by the Sun’ concept was ambitious and while the metaphor of heat and light made for a dramatic show, it sometimes felt more like a reach than reality. The show opened with veiled baseball caps that covered the models’ faces, inspired by UV-blocking headwear Di Felice saw in Thailand. Functional, yes, but in practice, they read more as costume than practicality. The idea of shielding from the sun in a world that’s literally overheating is poignant, but I couldn’t help wondering if any woman is actually going to wear that outside of an editorial shoot.

As the ‘temperature’ climbed, the clothes evolved. At 22 degrees, there were cool blues and sheers, calm and controlled. Then came swimsuits spliced with checkered skirts, unzipped leather jackets, and fluid minis that flashed the kind of geometry Courrèges is known for. By the time we reached 30 degrees, things shimmered: metallics, plant-based vinyls slashed and cut like melted plastic, and bleached fabrics that hinted at both fragility and heat. Di Felice’s craftsmanship is undeniable. He’s great at the technical side of things with asymmetric wrappings, sculpted silhouettes, those hybrid shapes that manage to be sharp yet soft. B

Still, for all its narrative strength, the collection felt mid to me. It didn’t hit with the emotional or aesthetic punch that some of his earlier work did. Either way, the intent is there. Nicolas Di Felice has been steering the brand toward something sleek and futuristic for a while now, and this season felt like another attempt to make that vision click. It wasn’t my favorite collection, but I’ll admit it’s a step in the right direction.