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God forbid a creative director does something actually new? Where do we draw the line between reinvention and disconnection? That question hung in the air at Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace, staged inside Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. The show was part love letter to Gianni, part manifesto for a new era. Vitale dove deep into the archives with high-waisted jeans cinched tight, slashed-back dresses, tight tees, bold color clashes, all set to George Michael and Prince. It was sexy, yes, but in a different register. Less polished, more raw.
Did we not like it just casue it ‘was not sexy enough’ Vitale’s sexiness wasn’t the obvious kind. It wasn’t just about skin but about suggestion. The undone belt, the dress slipping at the back, the cardigan tied around a chain-mail skirt.
This was very much Versace, just not the version we’re used to. And maybe that’s the point. Vitale didn’t give us Donatella 2.0 or Gianni reborn. He offered his own take, it was imperfect, vulnerable, and sometimes messy, but alive.
The energy was playful and defiant. Vintage-inspired silhouettes, glittery details, and slouchy layering collided with Medusa motifs and rhinestone sparkle. Knitwear, denim, and leather grounded the theatrics, reminding us that these clothes were made to be lived in, not just paraded.
Perhaps the criticism says more about expectation than execution. Everyone would have loved this if it weren’t a debut weighed down by legacy. But you didn’t walk away indifferent. Isn’t that what a creative director is supposed to do? Honour the brand while infusing it with their own point of view and interpretation.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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