Simone Rocha finds beauty in imperfection and adolescence | Simone Rocha Spring 2026 – London Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

Simone Rocha has always thrived in the space between beauty and youth, and her Spring 2026 collection was no exception. Shown at Mansion House—a setting that felt both fitting and slightly out of place—the lineup leaned into the idea of a “disgruntled debutante.” It wasn’t my favorite Rocha collection, but there were still plenty of moments to love. A chartreuse gown with padded hips stood out as a true highlight, while sheer, sensual layers added a subtle freshness to her familiar romantic codes.

Rocha’s references this season were deeply tied to girlhood and the uneasy transition into womanhood, pulling from Justine Kurland’s Girl Pictures and Maureen Freely’s essay on adolescent dress rehearsals. That tension showed up in the wonky crinolines, panniers, and trailing skirts, all styled with an intentional sense of imperfection. Models clutched pillow-like bags, wore tiaras slightly askew, and drifted down the runway with folded arms or pouts ,a performance of vulnerability as much as fashion.

New textures kept things interesting, from sequined bralettes slipping off shoulders to plastic overlays that resembled bouquet wrapping. Real flowers tucked into garments reinforced the theme of being put on display, awkward yet tender.