Emilia Wickstead experiments with edge in this collection | Emilia Wickstead Spring 2026 – London Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

I’ve always been a fan of Emilia Wickstead’s regal, feminine touch, which usually feels so polished and commanding. This season, though, something felt off. The vision was there, Wickstead dove into Robert Mapplethorpe’s world of radical sensuality and haunting florals, but the execution didn’t quite land. The fit on many looks seemed unfinished, missing that signature elegance that makes her clothes feel like new gen heirlooms.

The show took place inside her Sloane Street store, transformed into a salon-style runway that recalled Wickstead’s early days of intimate trunk shows. The setting made sense, especially as the collection leaned into personal references. Playing Maria Callas’ “Vissi d’arte” underscored the Mapplethorpe influence, as did prints of orchids, harness-like details, and moody tones inspired by his photography. There were strong ideas—a plaid dress twisted into sharp diagonals, a striking yellow sequin gown, even casual separates like polo knits and jeans—that showed her intent to expand her language.

But while the inspiration was powerful, the clothes sometimes felt caught between Wickstead’s usual refined glamour and a push toward something grittier. The delicate silks tied into bows and cage-like overlays were clever nods to Mapplethorpe’s world, yet they didn’t always carry the finesse we expect from her.