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Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2026 show felt like slipping into a sunset. Staged at the Cooper Hewitt on the Upper East Side, not far from her new Madison Avenue boutique, the collection carried both a personal and artistic resonance. Johnson looked to abstract expressionist Helen Frankenthaler for inspiration, drawing on her lush use of color and her ability to find strength in beauty.
The result was a lineup of clothes that felt almost like places you’d want to escape into—weightless dresses, feather-trimmed pieces, and gauzy fabrics that floated with every step. The palette was breathtaking: soft peaches, lavenders, chartreuse, raisin, and sunset shades that washed across the runway like watercolor. The finale looks especially, with their glowing hues, felt like a New York Fashion Week highlight.
What made the collection stand out was its embrace of prettiness and femininity without apology. Johnson leaned into softness—ruffles, fringe, transparency—but managed to keep it powerful, never flimsy. It was comforting yet bold, like walking through a meadow at dusk, dreamy but rooted. Some of the more elaborate mixes of volume and peplums were less convincing, but the best moments—fluid strapless gowns, hand-crocheted knits, and color-drenched silhouettes—were pure magic.
This was Johnson at her most open and optimistic, delivering clothes that felt both personal and universal. A celebration of color, nature, and the beauty in femininity, it left you with the feeling that sometime good clothes can make you day.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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