Proenza Schouler finds fresh energy under Rachel Scott | Proenza Schouler Spring 2026 – New York Fashion Week

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by brownfashionagal

Rachel Scott’s first outing at Proenza Schouler may have been billed as a collaboration with the studio team, but her touch was clear. The collection felt like a thoughtful prologue, a glimpse into how she plans to honor the brand’s DNA while slowly weaving in her own voice.

There was a sense of deconstruction running through the clothes, almost like taking something apart to find a new way forward. Blazers were turned inside out, seams and shoulder pads left visible, and jacquard fabrics were flipped to reveal the usually hidden threads. Even cotton was laser cut into floral echoes rather than printed on, a reminder that creation can come from subtraction as much as addition.

But this wasn’t all about unraveling. Draped dresses in black and seaglass green carried a delicate femininity, their blurred chrysanthemum motifs like memories seen through glass. Frayed edges and soft creases gave the clothes a lived-in intimacy, while sculpted jackets and experimental tailoring kept everything sharp. There were even flashes of Scott’s Diotima roots in chunky knit dresses and playful accessories.

What made this collection so compelling was its balance. It paid respect to Proenza’s past but hinted at new possibilities, never shouting but always intriguing. Scott called it a soft undoing, and it felt exactly that: the quiet start of a new chapter, full of promise.