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Glenn Martens stormed in, masks on, lights low, and drama turned all the way up. His Artisanal collection closed Couture Week with a bang (or rather, a spectral whisper), and it’s safe to say: it was worth the wait. It was haunting, beautiful, uncomfortable, and strangely uplifting – Everything Margiela is supposed to be. If there were any doubts about Martens stepping into this iconic role, they’re gone now.
The show opened in near darkness, unfolding in rooms lined with peeling wallpaper and decaying textures—a literal stage set for the beauty and chaos to come. Models floated in masks—some glittering, some ghostly—wearing everything from plastic-wrapped gowns to velvet drapes, all laced with historical references and surreal detail. Think: 17th-century Flemish wallpaper, Dutch nature paintings, and punk-era rebellion stitched into one fantastical vision.
Martens, a proud Belgian like Margiela himself, didn’t shy away from the house’s legacy—he dove headfirst into it. His signature wit and weirdness showed up in clever touches: boots with no heels, knit dresses made entirely of beads, even tin plates turned into headpieces. It was couture, but make it twisted, textured, and deeply poetic.
There was a strong nod to the past—clear plastic garments recalled Margiela’s ‘90s collections, while the heavy use of upcycled materials paid tribute to the brand’s founding principles. But this wasn’t nostalgia. It was reinvention. Martens’s mastery of draping, structure, and silhouette gave the whole show a future-facing edge. The ghostly jersey gowns, especially, were unforgettable—haunting in their beauty and strangely tender.
It’s no easy feat to follow Galliano and Margiela, but Martens proved he belongs in that lineage. His debut was technically daring, visually rich, and emotionally resonant. Maison Margiela hasn’t just found a new creative director—it’s found a true heir. One who understands the power of mystery, storytelling, and a really great mask.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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