Iris van Herpen Couture Fall 2025

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by brownfashionagal

“Sympoiesis” is a profound, almost spiritual, experience urging us to connect with our oceans. Kicking off with dancer Madoka Kariya’s captivating re-enactment of Loie Fuller’s “Serpentine Dance” amidst laser beams, the show immediately established its deep environmental consciousness.

Van Herpen, a visionary known for pushing boundaries, leveraged her year-long hiatus to create a collection both breathtakingly innovative and deeply meaningful. The undeniable highlight is the “living look,” featuring 125 million bioluminescent algae. It’s a symbiotic creation that glows with life, a proof of concept redefining what a garment can be—cultivated, not merely constructed. While a museum piece for now, its existence speaks volumes.

The collection seamlessly blends scientific innovation with artistic expression. We saw intricate, lattice-like structures from weightless air fabric mimicking jellyfish, and dresses made from Spiber Brewed Protein, echoing deep-sea forms. A stunning resin-coated silk gown appeared to defy gravity, spiraling like a cresting wave, a testament to timeless beauty. Even the Rombaut-collaborated footwear, with metal rings like sonar rays, reinforced the aquatic theme.

Van Herpen’s message is clear: this isn’t replication, but about “creating deeper relationships and therefore a consciousness.” The models’ deliberate movements, allowing close inspection, amplified this. The entire experience felt like a mesmerizing, thought-provoking scuba dive, urging us to appreciate the intricate details and the collection’s urgent message.

“Sympoiesis,” meaning collaboration across species, perfectly encapsulates this. From the delicate algae “living look” to kinetic dresses resembling hybrid creatures, Van Herpen imagines fashion that is alive. It’s a powerful and poignant collection that showcases technical brilliance and serves as a vital call to protect our planet’s largest, most mysterious ecosystem: our oceans.

Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway

Featured Image

We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.