Let’s be honest—most of us don’t think twice about the color of our clothes beyond whether they suit our style or mood. But here’s the truth: that rich emerald green sweater or the perfect shade of cobalt blue jeans come at an environmental cost. The process of dyeing textiles is one of the most overlooked yet damaging aspects of the fashion industry.
In this piece, we’re pulling back the curtain on textile dyes—the hidden pollutants behind our favorite fits—and what’s actually being done to fix it.
A Splash of Color, A Flood of Pollution
Water Waste & Pollution
The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest water consumers. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), textile dyeing is responsible for 20% of global industrial water pollution. That’s right—one-fifth of the water pollution caused by industries worldwide comes from dyeing clothes.
The reason? Dyeing fabrics involves rinsing, steaming, and washing—often multiple times—to fix colors and remove excess dye. This process uses enormous amounts of water and releases toxic chemicals into rivers and lakes, especially in countries where environmental regulations are weak or not enforced.
The World Bank has identified over 70 toxic chemicals that come solely from textile dyeing. Many of these are carcinogenic or harmful to aquatic life. In places like India, Bangladesh, and China—textile powerhouses—it’s common to see rivers turned blue, red, or purple depending on what colors are trending that season.
One alarming stat: dyeing one kilogram of fabric can require up to 150 liters of water. Now multiply that by the millions of garments made daily, and it’s easy to see how dyeing becomes a major environmental burden.
Chemical Soup
Synthetic dyes—used in over 90% of textiles today—are made from petroleum and often contain heavy metals, formaldehyde, chlorine compounds, and other toxic substances. One of the most widely used dye types, azo dyes, can release aromatic amines, some of which are known carcinogens.
These chemicals don’t just pollute water. They also make their way into the soil, the air, and eventually into our bodies through prolonged exposure. Workers in dyeing factories, especially those without proper safety measures, often suffer from skin conditions, respiratory problems, and long-term health complications.
In some cases, communities living near dyeing facilities experience an increase in cancer rates, reproductive issues, and contaminated drinking water sources.
The Ripple Effect on Ecosystems
When untreated wastewater is dumped into rivers, it blocks sunlight from reaching aquatic plants, disrupting photosynthesis. Fish and other aquatic life struggle to survive in oxygen-depleted water. Some species can’t adapt and die off, leading to a disrupted ecosystem.
What’s more, when this polluted water is reused for irrigation—something that’s unfortunately common in farming communities near textile hubs—it leads to soil contamination. Crops don’t grow properly, and harmful chemicals can enter the food chain.
The environmental impact isn’t just local—it’s global.
What’s Being Done: A New Wave of Solutions
While the picture sounds bleak, there’s good news: the fashion industry, scientists, startups, and even governments are waking up. Here’s what’s being done to reduce the impact of textile dyes:
1. Switching to Natural Dyes
Before synthetic dyes came into play in the mid-1800s, all fabric was dyed with natural pigments—think turmeric, indigo, beetroot, and even insects like cochineal. Today, there’s a revival of this age-old technique.
Brands and startups are now experimenting with plant-based and waste-based dyes that are biodegradable and non-toxic. For example:
- Aizome uses herbal dyes that are also antibacterial and hypoallergenic. Their textiles are so clean, they’re certified as medical-grade by the U.S. FDA.
- Nature Coatings created BioBlack TX, a black pigment made from wood waste that’s carbon-negative, petroleum-free, and totally safe for skin and waterways.
However, scaling natural dyes is still a challenge. They often require more land to grow the plants used in dye extraction and may not always be as colorfast (i.e., fade-resistant) as synthetics.
2. New Dyeing Technologies
Innovators are also rethinking the way we apply color to fabrics:
- We Are Spindye, a Swedish company, uses solution dyeing, where color is added during the fiber production process. This technique reduces water use by 75%, energy by 90%, and chemical use by 90% compared to conventional dyeing.
- Cold Pad Batch (CPB) dyeing is another low-impact method. It involves applying dyes at room temperature, which saves energy and cuts water use dramatically. It’s been gaining traction in Europe and among eco-conscious brands.
- Some startups are exploring supercritical CO₂ dyeing, a waterless dyeing method that uses pressurized carbon dioxide to carry dye into fibers. Companies like DyeCoo are at the forefront of this tech, which eliminates water use altogether and reduces chemical waste.
3. Bioremediation: Cleaning Up With Nature
One of the more fascinating developments is bioremediation—using microorganisms like bacteria, algae, or fungi to clean up dye pollution. These organisms “eat” the harmful dyes and break them down into harmless byproducts.
Research published in Environmental Technology & Innovation found that certain algae can remove over 90% of dye pollutants from water within a few hours.
While still mostly in the research and pilot phases, bioremediation has the potential to revolutionize how we treat wastewater in the textile industry.
Certifications That Matter
For consumers, knowing which brands are actually walking the talk can be confusing. That’s where certifications come in.
- OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 tests every component of a garment—including dyes—for harmful substances. If it has this label, it’s safe for human health.
- Bluesign® ensures the entire textile supply chain—from dyeing to finishing—is environmentally friendly and safe for workers.
- GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) not only requires organic fibers but also bans toxic dyes and chemicals.
Looking for these certifications when shopping is a simple way to make sure you’re not unknowingly supporting harmful dye practices.
What Can We Do as Consumers?
You don’t need to overhaul your closet overnight to make a difference. Here are a few small but meaningful steps:
- Buy less, choose well. The fewer clothes we buy, the less pressure we put on production systems.
- Support transparent brands. Look for companies that disclose their dyeing processes and use certified eco-friendly dyes.
- Care for your clothes. Washing in cold water, air-drying, and avoiding over-washing helps preserve dye and reduce microplastic release.
- Educate and share. The more we talk about the issue, the more pressure we put on brands to clean up their act.
Color Doesn’t Have to Cost the Earth
Dyes bring beauty and self-expression into our lives. They help us communicate moods, memories, and messages through fashion. But color shouldn’t come at the expense of our environment or health.
The textile dyeing industry has a long way to go, but change is happening. With innovation, accountability, and conscious consumer choices, we can imagine a future where vibrant color and sustainability go hand in hand.
Ayerhs Magazine 