You’ve probably seen it all over your Instagram feed or maybe even bought a cute bag labeled “vegan leather.” It sounds like the dream—stylish, affordable, and guilt-free because no animals were harmed in the process. Win-win, right?
Well, not exactly.
Vegan leather has been marketed as the eco-friendly savior of the fashion industry. But if we really care about the planet—and not just the label—it’s worth taking a closer look. What is vegan leather actually made of? And is it really better for the environment than traditional leather?
Let’s break it down in plain terms. No fluff. Just facts, feelings, and a bit of fashion talk.
So, What Is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather, at its core, is any material designed to look and feel like leather but doesn’t come from animals. Simple as that. But what’s under the hood—or rather, under the surface—can vary wildly.
There are three main types:
- Plastic-based vegan leather – Usually made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU). These are synthetic plastics that are cheap to make and easy to shape.
- Plant-based vegan leather – Made from things like pineapple leaves (Piñatex), cactus (Desserto), mushrooms (Mylo), or apples (AppleSkin).
- Natural, biodegradable alternatives – These are newer, often niche materials made with little to no plastic, designed to eventually break down in the environment.
So yes, “vegan leather” sounds good. But the devil’s in the details—especially when it comes to plastic.
The Plastic Problem Nobody Talks About
Here’s the thing: most vegan leather today is made from plastic. PU and PVC are the big players, and while they’ve helped make vegan leather more accessible and affordable, they come with their own environmental baggage.
PU (Polyurethane)
PU is considered “less bad” than PVC, but that doesn’t make it good. It’s derived from fossil fuels, not renewable resources, and it takes decades (if not longer) to break down. And when it does, it doesn’t just vanish—it becomes microplastics.
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
PVC is worse. It’s known to release toxic chemicals like dioxins during production and when it breaks down. These chemicals are harmful to both the environment and human health.
So while plastic-based vegan leather skips the cruelty to animals, it’s still part of the broader pollution problem—especially when these items end up in landfills.
But Isn’t Leather… Worse?
Let’s be real: traditional leather has its own set of serious issues. It’s not exactly a clean process.
1. Animals
First, yes—leather comes from animals. While some argue it’s a byproduct of the meat industry, the demand for leather has led to specific cattle being raised just for their hides in some regions.
2. Tanning
To turn raw animal skin into usable leather, it has to be treated through a process called tanning. Most leather is tanned using chromium salts, which are toxic. These chemicals often end up in waterways, harming communities near tanneries—especially in countries where regulations are weak.
3. Water and Land Use
Cows require a ton of resources—literally. Leather production is linked to deforestation (think Amazon rainforest being cleared for cattle grazing), greenhouse gas emissions (hello, methane), and massive water consumption.
So yes, leather is durable and biodegradable in theory, but the environmental cost of making it is very real.
So Where Does That Leave Us?
Neither option is perfect. Plastic-based vegan leather pollutes in the long run. Traditional leather pollutes from the very start.
But in recent years, plant-based vegan leathers have started making waves—and they’re worth talking about.
Meet the New Kids on the Block: Plant-Based Leather
These materials are trying to do better. They come from agricultural waste or renewable plants and often require fewer resources to produce. A few examples:
- Piñatex – Made from pineapple leaf fibers. It’s a byproduct of the pineapple harvest, so no extra land or water is needed.
- Desserto – Made from prickly pear cactus. Grows with little water and no pesticides.
- Mylo – Mushroom-based leather. Grows quickly, requires little land, and feels surprisingly luxe.
- AppleSkin – Uses leftover apple peels and cores from the food industry.
All of these sound promising—and they are. But here’s the catch: many of them still include some form of plastic binder to give the material strength and durability. So, while the base of the material is more eco-friendly, the final product isn’t 100% biodegradable or recyclable just yet.
That said, they’re a step in the right direction. And in an industry where change is slow, that matters.
Greenwashing: The Trend We Didn’t Ask For
Let’s talk marketing. Just because something is labeled “vegan leather” doesn’t automatically make it eco-friendly. But a lot of brands rely on this confusion to sell more products.
This is called greenwashing—making something seem sustainable without actually doing the work. For example:
- A handbag might be made from PU leather, but branded as “vegan and sustainable.”
- A brand might highlight the use of pineapple leather, but not disclose that it’s mixed with 30% plastic.
As consumers, it’s easy to fall for this. The language is convincing, and who doesn’t want to feel like they’re making a responsible choice?
But if we want to support real change, we have to start asking the right questions—and reading the fine print.
Fast Fashion and the Bigger Picture
Here’s an uncomfortable truth: whether it’s leather, vegan leather, or pineapple leather—it doesn’t matter much if we’re buying tons of it every season.
The core problem isn’t just what our clothes are made from, but how much we’re consuming. The rise of vegan leather has made leather-looking goods cheaper and more accessible, which is great in theory—but it’s also led to overproduction.
And in the end, whether it’s animal leather or plastic, when something ends up in a landfill after one season, it becomes part of the same cycle: take, make, waste.
So, What Can We Do?
It’s easy to feel overwhelmed. But small, conscious choices can go a long way. Here are a few ways to navigate the leather/vegan leather world more intentionally:
1. Buy Less, Buy Better
Choose items you truly love and will use for years. Whether it’s a leather bag or a cactus-based wallet, longevity should be the goal.
2. Ask Questions
Look into what your clothes and accessories are really made of. Don’t be afraid to email brands or check their sustainability pages. If they’re being vague, that’s a red flag.
3. Support Innovation
Back brands that are experimenting with new materials and doing the hard work of pushing the industry forward. They may be smaller or more expensive, but they’re setting the tone for a better future.
4. Care and Repair
Take care of what you own. Use leather conditioners (there are vegan versions too), avoid overstuffing your bags, and get shoes resoled instead of replaced.
5. Secondhand is Always a Win
Thrift it. Borrow it. Swap it. If it already exists, buying it secondhand is almost always more sustainable than something new—regardless of the material.
The Bottom Line
Vegan leather isn’t just one thing—it’s a whole range of materials, some better than others. It’s not automatically the holy grail of sustainability just because it skips the cow.
The truth is more complicated. But that doesn’t mean we give up. It means we stay curious, ask better questions, and make more informed choices—without getting caught up in shiny labels.
At the end of the day, being a conscious consumer isn’t about being perfect. It’s about doing our best with what we know—and being open to learning more as we go.
So next time you see a bag tagged “vegan leather,” pause and think: What kind of vegan leather? What happens to this after I’m done with it? And most importantly—Do I really need it?
Because real sustainability isn’t about owning the right stuff.
It’s about owning less, caring more, and making choices that last.
Ayerhs Magazine 