Roksanda Fall 2025 LFW: A Mixed Bag

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by brownfashionagal

With oversized tailoring, rich textures, and bold color pairings, Roksanda Ilincic drew inspiration from the late artist Phyllida Barlow, who worked with discarded materials to create monumental art pieces.

The collection opened with three truly stunning looks: impeccably made, conceptually strong, and perfectly aligned with Roksanda’s signature aesthetic. These initial pieces, with their effortless draping and unexpected textures, set a high bar for what was to follow.

However, as the show progressed, the collection began to feel a bit disjointed. Some of the sculptural elements, like the floppy sponge-panel skirts and the fil coupe dresses with trailing threads, felt exciting and innovative, embodying the fluidity and movement that Ilincic often excels at. The play on sound—rattling paillettes and rustling textures—was an interesting touch that added another sensory layer to the experience.

Yet, not all of the experimental pieces landed successfully. Some looks, particularly those with oversized jackets, sheer black panels, and exaggerated sequined headpieces, felt more like student projects. If refined a bit further, this collection could have been a real strong one.